Guess who's back? Me! You might not even have noticed, but over the holidays I took an extended break from writing, and cooking. Many of you can relate, but the holiday season is often just TOO crazy for me to manage everything in our schedules and this year was no different. That's all in the rear view mirror now and it's time to get back at it. A number of things have come up since taking a break. I received an invitation to attend the 2018 Iowa Pork Taste of Elegance competition again. Restaurants have open and closed here in Des Moines. New chef friends have come into my life. One of the culinary world's great Master Chefs has passed away. I've added to my collection of Mouli food shredder/slicers. I've become obsessed with china tea sets. Numerous cookbooks have been added to my collection. Lots to talk about, and lots to cook.
One of the most impactful events for me is the passing of Chef Paul Bocuse on January 20, 2018. I was so saddened to hear this news. Originally from Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, France, Chef Bocuse is widely known as the creator of nouvelle cuisine, and helped shape generations of new chefs, through his incredible Michelin star restaurants. Many of his students have gone on to earn Michelin stars of their own. Many organizations created awards in Chef Bocuse's honor, including the prestigious Bocuse d'Or, a biennial chef competition held in Lyon and is probably the most prestigious competition in the world. Bocuse received a number of honors and awards of his own over the years including the medal as Commander of the Legion d'honneur.
His most regarded restaurant is L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges near Lyon in France. Bocuse's accomplishments and culinary triumphs are numerous indeed, and include preparing the meals for the maiden flight of the Concorde in 1969 and the world famous soupe aux truffles he served at a Presidential Dinner at the Elysee Palace in 1975. This soup, known as Soup VGE, remains a mainstay in his restaurant today.
Once I'd heard Chef Bocuse had passed away I immediately hit the cookbook shelves, pulled out some classics, and began reading. I knew this was the kick in the pants I needed to get back to cooking and hit the laptop to share. The vast majority of my cookbooks are newer with contemporary chefs but I do have a few gems in the collection, especially vintage cookbooks and European chefs. This is where the real influence lies for me. Not the current television cooking personality, but in the old time chefs who didn't have time for celebrity instead focusing on classic preparations, the Mother sauces, the roots of cooking. I can lose myself for days in these kinds of cookbooks, almost like textbooks to me.
As soon as the cool weather in October hit, I became obsessed with autumn cooking, and got my heart set on osso buco, so Found myself again looking for this classic recipe in those old books. Authentic osso buco is made with veal shanks. I set off on my quest to track down some veal shanks locally. That's when the whole plan went awry. No luck. So the search went to online sources. What a kick in the reality check- the best price I could find for two, yes only two, pieces of the veal shank was $59.99. Now we love food, we love GOOD food and we will pay the money for something truly exceptional when we want it, but I really had trouble plunking down $30.00 each for a couple pieces of veal shank, so I started to research alternative cuts. The results were interesting. Other chefs were using everything from pork shanks, to venison cuts to pieces of beef chuck roast. Right away I knew I wasn't going to go with pork. That just didn't have the right flavor or consistency of tender veal. Venison? We love venison but for this dish, I had to pass. Beef chuck, however, is easy to come by and much much less expensive, so chuck it is. Once I had all my ingredients purchased, I set about making this slow-braised dish that fills the house with delicious aromas and is perfect for a cold and blustery autumn day. I chose a Cabernet Sauvignon for my red wine. You want a dry red that you would also drink, so don't go with a super cheap wine or "cooking wine"- might as well throw your money away.
One of the most impactful events for me is the passing of Chef Paul Bocuse on January 20, 2018. I was so saddened to hear this news. Originally from Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, France, Chef Bocuse is widely known as the creator of nouvelle cuisine, and helped shape generations of new chefs, through his incredible Michelin star restaurants. Many of his students have gone on to earn Michelin stars of their own. Many organizations created awards in Chef Bocuse's honor, including the prestigious Bocuse d'Or, a biennial chef competition held in Lyon and is probably the most prestigious competition in the world. Bocuse received a number of honors and awards of his own over the years including the medal as Commander of the Legion d'honneur.
His most regarded restaurant is L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges near Lyon in France. Bocuse's accomplishments and culinary triumphs are numerous indeed, and include preparing the meals for the maiden flight of the Concorde in 1969 and the world famous soupe aux truffles he served at a Presidential Dinner at the Elysee Palace in 1975. This soup, known as Soup VGE, remains a mainstay in his restaurant today.
Once I'd heard Chef Bocuse had passed away I immediately hit the cookbook shelves, pulled out some classics, and began reading. I knew this was the kick in the pants I needed to get back to cooking and hit the laptop to share. The vast majority of my cookbooks are newer with contemporary chefs but I do have a few gems in the collection, especially vintage cookbooks and European chefs. This is where the real influence lies for me. Not the current television cooking personality, but in the old time chefs who didn't have time for celebrity instead focusing on classic preparations, the Mother sauces, the roots of cooking. I can lose myself for days in these kinds of cookbooks, almost like textbooks to me.
As soon as the cool weather in October hit, I became obsessed with autumn cooking, and got my heart set on osso buco, so Found myself again looking for this classic recipe in those old books. Authentic osso buco is made with veal shanks. I set off on my quest to track down some veal shanks locally. That's when the whole plan went awry. No luck. So the search went to online sources. What a kick in the reality check- the best price I could find for two, yes only two, pieces of the veal shank was $59.99. Now we love food, we love GOOD food and we will pay the money for something truly exceptional when we want it, but I really had trouble plunking down $30.00 each for a couple pieces of veal shank, so I started to research alternative cuts. The results were interesting. Other chefs were using everything from pork shanks, to venison cuts to pieces of beef chuck roast. Right away I knew I wasn't going to go with pork. That just didn't have the right flavor or consistency of tender veal. Venison? We love venison but for this dish, I had to pass. Beef chuck, however, is easy to come by and much much less expensive, so chuck it is. Once I had all my ingredients purchased, I set about making this slow-braised dish that fills the house with delicious aromas and is perfect for a cold and blustery autumn day. I chose a Cabernet Sauvignon for my red wine. You want a dry red that you would also drink, so don't go with a super cheap wine or "cooking wine"- might as well throw your money away.
Osso Buco
2-4 sections veal shank*
salt and pepper
2 carrots, chopped into 1/4 inch dice
1 large onion, chopped fine
1 stalks celery, chopped into 1/4 inch dice
5-6 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bottle dry red wine
4 cups beef broth
olive oil
* Unable to locate veal shanks locally, I used similar sized pieces of beef chuck roast.
Season the meat all over liberally with the salt and pepper. Heat a Dutch oven over medium high heat and add a couple swirls of olive oil. Sear the meat on both sides. Remove and set aside.
Add a little more oil to the pot and add the carrot and celery. Cook, occasionally until starting to caramelize. Add the onion, garlic, thyme, bay leaves and saute a minute or two. Add the tomato paste, stirring to coat the vegetables.
Add the wine and broth to the pot. Bring to boil stirring to loosen any browned bits from the pot. Add the meat back to the pot, reduce the heat and simmer for one hour. Watch and add a little water if necessary. You want the sauce to cook to a rich and thick consistency.
While the osso buco is cooking, prepare the polenta for four servings. Mix Parmesan cheese to taste into the polenta. Serve the polenta in shallow bowls with the meat and sauce on top.
