Foodie Field Trip- Bubba

There is something very exciting about hitting the newest hot spots around town before the big public grand opening and inevitable crowds and long lines and waiting for ages for a reservation. Over the last several years Des Moines has become a booming mecca for hip new dining spots, inventive new chefs, great night spots and an entirely revived downtown neighborhood that's filled with outstanding restaurant and nightlife options and beautiful places to live. In the not so distant past you had to visit Chicago or L.A. or New York to experience cuisine prepared by a James Beard nominated chef or a restaurant that's been featured on a national television show. These days you can walk from your elegant downtown loft to have dinner in a restaurant that's grabbing the national spotlight and quite possibly has been featured in a magazine or two.

For all our new "worldy" ways and big city style, Des Moines can still be a bit of a small town when it comes to the culinary scene. Everyone I know is good buddies with a chef who owns or practices in one of the best restaurants in town. We went to school with them. We live next to them. Our best friend is their brother in law. We bump into them in the grocery store and we know where they like to go for a meal out or for drinks on a night off. Now more than ever when it comes to getting in good with the culinary elite it really is all about who you know. I have been very lucky to get to attend some openings of some of the most successful restaurants around town, and Bubba is no exception. My daughter invited me to join her and her boyfriend Josh for an evening seating during the soft opening- and of course I said yes!

I first heard about this new restaurant just by chance. Skimming through social media I came across an advertisement for a new restaurant that was hiring staff. I immediately thought about my own Chef and wondered if this might be something he would be interested in. As I read more I realized who the owners were and more importantly, who the Executive Chef is! You guys already know how much I love Malo, the upscale Latin restaurant downtown, and this chef spent time in the Malo kitchen. I knew this was going to be a very very special restaurant. I was not disappointed. Bubba is located in the same spot formerly occupied by the Raccoon River Brewing Company. As expected, the brewery had a very rustic feel, lots of exposed brick and ductwork, beer equipment around the rooms and a party like atmosphere. Stepping in the door of Bubba was like being transported to someplace completely different. The red brick is toned down and the restaurant has a whitewashed Southern feel with interesting artwork, sterling silver serveware and an entire wall of framed bow ties. Beautifully upholstered banquette seating lines the wall with sparkling chandeliers overhead. It is gorgeous. Most of the dining room is on the mezzanine level overlooking the bar and entrance with a fantastic view of the street through huge windows.

Since we were there for the soft opening we each received a slightly different menu. Each table got to select an appetizer to share, each diner chose an entree, and a dessert to share as well. We started with the cocktail menu. The full bar was available but a special cocktail menu for the evening featured four signature cocktails- Banana Bread Manhattan, Bourbon Berry Fizz, Bubba Julep and Southern Sunrise. Josh chose the Banana Bread Manhattan, which arrived in a large martini glass garnished with a slice of banana and a cherry, soaking in the boozy deliciousness. This cocktail is made with Bulleit Rye, Antica Carpano vermouth, banana nut syrup and black walnut bitters. It is a knockout drink- the perfect blend of boozy and fruity. Laurie chose the Southern Sunrise which as a clever play on the tequila sunrise, made with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, orange juice, cranberry juice and a bit of grenadine. Delicious !! My cocktail of choice was the Bourbon Berry Fizz. Muddled basil and crushed strawberries hang out in the glass with Bulleit Bourbon and a splash of soda for fizz. The crushed strawberries were sweet and fruity and the basil added an unexpected flavor that was awesome and so Southern.

Banana Bread Manhattan

Southern Sunrise

Bourbon Berry Fizz

The appetizer selections made it so hard to chose just one. There were a couple familiar names- like crab cakes, which I'm sure would have had Bubba's Southern touch, but the real stars were the totally Southern options. Fried okra spears. Fried green tomatoes. White cheddar grits cakes. It was monumentally hard to decide but we chose the biscuit sliders- three perfect flaky buttermilk biscuits piled with smokey pulled pork, crispy fried onions and a homemade rhubarb jam that took these tiny sandwiches to another level altogether. Chef Jammie shared the story of the jam and said it would change seasonally to use the freshest in season fruits. I can't wait to see what fruit makes the dish next.

The dinner selections were just as tempting. No Southern restaurant would be worth a darn if they didn't serve fried chicken so of course it's a star on the menu here. Ever heard of a Kentucky Hot Brown? No? Well, you can try one here. Chicken fried steak, which I wanted soooo badly, is served with white cheddar mash, creamy pepper gravy and smokey green beans. Yum! Catfish is another Southern staple and that's on the menu as well as a twist on Succotash, used to stuff a Chile Relleno. At our table Josh chose the Chicken and Waffles which arrived as a crispy waffle with pecan honey butter, HUGE pieces of buttermilk fried chicken, house made bread and butter pickles and Chef Jammie's secret hot sauce. He would not give up the secret but you can taste a touch of honey in there and its amazingly delicious.

Laurie went with the Dr. Pepper Braised Short Rib. This version is boneless and slow braised in a rich Dr. Pepper based sauce until it's melt in your mouth tender. Served with black eyed peas, roasted rainbow carrots, crispy onions and drizzled with the sauce, it's a stunningly beautiful dish and one of the most delicious meals I have ever tasted.

I had a terrible time deciding. I love chicken fried steak and it's a pain to make at home and not served in very many good restaurants anymore but I decided to try something completely new and decided on the Shrimp and Grits. Good choice too, this is a dish I will have again!  Don't be one of those people who says they don't like grits. Just try this. The grits are creamy and cheesy and the perfect partners for the slightly spicy, lightly blackened grilled shrimp piled on top. The shrimp were huge and perfectly cooked, just as I'd expect. Sweet corn puree added a sweet note and that house made hot sauce was part of the party too. Crispy fried BIG lardons dotted the grits and added a crunchy component that I really loved. And those grits.......

Let's just say I was VERY happy with my dinner.......

Laurie suggested we all try something else we never tried before- collard greens. The greens arrived in the cutest little cast iron pot and were loaded with big hunks of ham, cooked beautifully and yes, very very delicious.

The meal wasn't over just yet. Dessert was next and once again, tough choices had to be made. Bourbon Pecan Pie. Bananas Foster on a giant brown butter waffle. Pineapple Upside Down Cake baked in cast iron. Peach and Blueberry Bread Pudding. Ugh- how do we choose?  We went with the bread pudding. It arrived with a scoop of creamy vanilla bean ice cream and draped in a creamy custard sauce. It was a HUGE hunk of soft and warm bread soaked in eggy custard with huge fresh blueberries and slices of fresh peaches. So incredibly delicious, I highly recommend this. It was not overly sweet either, just the perfect amount of fresh fruit and baked goodness.

I can't wait to visit Bubba again and try some of the other items we didn't get a chance to try this visit. So much delicious, so little time.

You can learn more about Chef Jammie Monaghan by clicking HERE.

Disclosure of Material Connection: I received an invitation to attend the soft opening of this restaurant at no cost, with no expectation that I would mention it on my blog. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I believe are of good quality and safe. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 255: "Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising."

Waiter, there is a fungus in my soup!

The Chef and I are mushroom people. It's one of those things- you either are or you aren't. We love mushrooms of all kinds. We have been known to wander aimlessly in the woods looking for the elusive morel, and for bringing home creepy looking enoki mushrooms from the Asian grocery store. Stuffed, sauteed, fried, over a steak, dipped in sauce, you name it- we will eat it. So it's not surprise that since we're on a homemade soup kick mushrooms make an appearance. 

Another thing we are really into is roasting things. Especially vegetables- the high heat seals in flavor and brings a smoky element to whatever type of veggie you are roasting. In this recipe, the high heat brings out the earthiness of the mushrooms, caramelizes the leek and shallot and gives you lots of roasty toasty browned bits in the pan to add tons of flavor to the soup. I am cooking bacon in the oven at the same time so I'll add a drizzle of bacon drippings to really bring out the smokiness in the flavors. Deglazing the pan with cognac, which is a classic partner for mushrooms, brings a note of sophistication to the soup. Finished with cream, this soup has loads of character, flavor and warms you up on a chilly day. Homemade croutons and big bacon chunks finish it off with a rustic flair.

A quick word about mushrooms- The mushrooms I have chosen to use are easy to find in almost every supermarket. The typical package of mushrooms is 8 ounces and if you can't find all three types, or if you want to try a different mushroom, such as porcini, as long as you have a pound and a half, mix it up! I don't care for shiitake mushrooms much, but if you use them, remove and discard the entire stem-it's tough and woody. You can use just about any other mushroom except morels. Even if they are in season, they don't work well with roasting. If in doubt, just roast a few in the mix and taste test them. If you want to play it safe you can even use 3 packages of white button mushrooms and still have great results.

Creamy Mushroom Soup

• 1 pkg button mushrooms
• 1 pkg portobello mushrooms
• 1 pkg cremini mushrooms
• 3 leeks, cleaned well and chopped
• 3 medium shallots, chopped
• big pinch dried thyme, crumbled
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• salt and pepper
• 1/4 cup cognac
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 8 slices bacon
• Homemade croutons 

Make croutons ahead of time and store in airtight container.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wipe mushrooms clean. Trim off stem ends. Halve or quarter any large button or cremini mushrooms. Cut the portobellos into similar size chunks. In a large roasting pan toss the mushrooms, leek, shallots, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for 20-45 minutes, stirring occasionally until mushrooms are brown and tender.

While the vegetables are roasting, place the bacon slices on a sheet pan with a rim that has been sprayed with cooking spray. Bake until crispy and brown. This should take about 20 minutes. Drain off about 1-2 tablespoons of bacon fat and toss with vegetables. Remove bacon from pan and drain on paper towels. Break into large pieces. Set aside for later.

When the vegetables are done, remove to a large bowl. Use the cognac to deglaze the roasting pan, stirring to loosen up any browned bits from the bottom. Add the broth. 

Working in batches, puree the vegetables with the broth mixture in a food processor. Pour into stockpot. Add the cream. Heat to serving temperature. Serve soup in bowls sprinkled with homemade croutons and several pieces of bacon per bowl. A teensy sprinkle of something green looks pretty too- fresh thyme leaves or minced parsley work nicely.

Homemade Croutons

• several slices crusty white bread
• 3-4 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, bruised

Cut the bread into large cubes. Set aside. In a small saucepan heat  the olive oil with the bruised garlic cloves. Allow to steep for at least an hour. Remove the garlic cloves (save for use in another recipe or throw in the vegetables when making this soup) and drizzle oil over the bread cubes- you may NOT need all of it. You can use the leftover oil in the soup or refrigerate and save for another use. Toast the bread cubes in a hot heavy skillet- good old fashioned cast  iron is great for this- until browned and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Pavlova- Heaven on a plate

Hasn't been a whole lot of baking going on around here. Not lately. Not many desserts have been coming out of the kitchen at The Little Lake House and I need to change that. Last night I was watching my way through my stockpile of DVRd cooking shows- things I save and watch when The Chef isn't watching tv, like Nigella Lawson and Laura Calder. He just doesn't "get" foreign women. 

Anyway, Nigella was cooking with things she had in the pantry and freezer- using up things basically. She is quite a thrifty gal actually, I was surprised at some of the things she had tucked in the freezer. Chicken bones, because she obviously makes her own stocks, odds and ends of vegetables for casseroles and egg whites- frozen in zip top bags in twos. She had thawed egg whites to make a pavlova and I just HAD TO make one.

If you have never heard of it, a pavlova is a classic dessert created in the early 1900s in honor of the Russian ballerina, Anna Pavlova. It's quite simply, meringue baked until crisp and dry on the outside and tender and marshmallow-like on the inside, topped with whipped cream and passion fruit or berries. I am going to make mine just slightly different, using what I have on hand, so it will be a pastry cream instead of whipped cream, topped with mango chunks and blueberries, with a teeny hint of booziness for fun.

There are just two of us here, so I usually make miniature versions of things, when I can, and that's also the case this time. I just need 2 egg whites for a smaller meringue, so if you make this for guests or your family, be sure and double the ingredients. Of course, you can use the traditional whipped cream instead of pastry cream also. Plan on one cup icy cold heavy whipping cream to make enough fluffy cream to cover the top.

Making meringue is not difficult. Most importantly, you have to be sure the bowl you are using is absolutely grease-free, so use glass or metal rather than plastic. Adding a touch of cornstarch adds some stability to the structure of the meringue and so does the teensiest bit of vinegar I add. Another important step is adding the sugar. You don't want to add it too soon or the egg whites may not reach their fullest volume, but you also want to be sure you have plenty of time for the sugar to dissolve as you finish beating, so you don't have crunchy bits in the meringue. Rubbing a dab between your finger and thumb to check for smoothness is a great way to tell if the sugar is dissolved. You will feel it if it isn't. 

Make sure to spread the meringue mixture out onto parchment or waxed paper. If you spread it onto a sheet pan you may not be able to get it off after it's baked, and if you grease the pan, the meringue will shrink up and not be attractive at all. Spread it out as evenly as possible and use the back of the spoon to create a swirly "rim" so the filling will not run all over. 

Classic Pavlova

2 egg whites, room temperature (reserve the yolks)
tiny pinch salt
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Heat the oven to 180 degrees.

Prepare the pan by lining with a sheet of parchment paper or waxed paper. Using a plate or small pan as a guide, draw a circle on the paper, about 5-6 inches in diameter for a two egg meringue, or about 9-10 inches for  full size 4 egg meringue. Turn the paper upside down so you can still see the circle but won't be spreading the meringue on the pencil marking.

Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. With the mixer still on high, slowly add the sugar and continue beating until sugar is dissolved and meringue forms stiff, shiny peaks. This takes about 2 minutes.

Sift the cornstarch over the egg whites and add the vinegar and vanilla; fold in lightly. Pile the meringue onto the paper and using a spoon, spread and shape the meringue into a circular shell. Remember to build up a slight rim.

Bake for about 90 minutes. Turn off the oven and DO NOT REMOVE meringue! Let it cool completely in the oven, at least an hour. Peel off the paper and place on serving plate. Top with cream and fruit.

Pastry Cream

1 cup milk
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
pinch of salt
1 teaspoon butter

Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan. 

Bring to boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and add butter, stirring to milk in completely. Pour into bowl, cover with plastic wrap placed directly on the surface. Chill completely before using.

Now, I'll let you in on a little secret. Pastry chefs the world over will cringe at this idea but hey, it works perfectly so here goes- use a whisk to combine all the ingredients in a large microwave safe container. Cook on high one minute, whisk; and repeat until mixture is thick and smooth, checking every 30 seconds after 2 minutes. It took 2 1/2 minutes and came out perfect- no lumps!

Boozy Fruit

1/4 cup blueberries
1/2 cup mango or peach chunks
1/2 cup sliced strawberries
1 tablespoon Chambord liqueur
lemon zest
sugar, if needed

Combine the fruits, liqueur, zest. Add a touch of sugar if needed. I used frozen fruits and let them thaw so they would be a bit softer and juicer than fresh. Pile the fruit on top of the pavlova and cream. Serve immediately.

Oh my goodness..... this dessert..... is heavenly. The meringue is so delicate and ethereal. As you break that crisp crust the interior is tender like a marshmallow. The cream and fruit kind of become part of the meringue after a short while, and it's just sooooo delicious. You can use almost any fruit you like. I had these in the freezer and they were a great combination.

A few final notes:  I had a little trouble with the waxed paper this time. Might have been crummy quality paper, but it stuck to the baking pan and the meringue more than I expected. A silicone liner might be a better option if you have one. I need to get one!

Kicked Up Home Cooking- Flat iron steak gets boozy

Sorry, more braising.  Actually, I am not really sorry. Since my recent reintroduction to braising I just cannot stop. Better not stand around my kitchen too long- you're going to end up in a pot with garlic, onions, mushrooms and a liquor of some sort!

I had quite a giggle over a recent post on Wini Moranville's blog Chez Bonne Femme. She prepared this recipe from Molly Stevens' cookbook All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking using flat iron steaks but mentioned the old standards of my childhood- top round steak and cubed steak. I remember my mother laboring over the cutting board, pounding the life out of round steak and then cooking it for hours. Sometimes it turned out tender, but most of the time it was just dry and chewy. I can't remember the last time I have seen one of those big platter-sized round steaks in the meat department. I don't really miss them. Flat iron steaks are the new kid in town and I'm going to give this recipe a try myself. The pictures on Wini's blog are mouth watering and the ingredients have everything I love- butter, onion, herbs, mushrooms and a splash of sherry. Boozy braising is right up my alley! Here is the recipe from Chez Bonne Femme-

Smothered Flat-iron Steaks with Mushrooms and Onions

Adapted from All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking

Serves 4

4 3/4 to 1 inch thick boneless flat-iron steaks (you might have to cut 2 large steaks into 4 portions)
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup all purpose flour
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound cremini or baby bella mushrooms, thickly sliced
1 large yellow onion (about 3/4 lb), sliced about 1/4 inch thick
1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme, crushed
1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika
1/2 cup dry sherry
2 tablespoons snipped fresh parsley

Using a meat mallet (or the bottom of a heavy saucepan), pound the steaks one at a time between two sheets of waxed paper or plastic wrap until about 1/2 inch thick. Season both sides of each steak with salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow dish and dredge the steaks with flour, shaking off the excess.

Heat the olive oil in a braiser over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Cook the meat, turning as needed, until nicely browned on both sides, but not cooked through, about 8 minutes total. Remove the steaks from the pan.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the braiser, and when it is melted, add the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring as needed, until the liquid they release has mostly evaporated and they've started to brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl.

Return the braiser to the heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter; when the butter has melted, add the onions, thyme, and paprika; lightly season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the onions are tender but not brown, about 8 minutes. Add the sherry; bring to a boil while stirring to loosen the browned bits clinging the the bottom of the pan.

Reduce the heat to simmering; return the mushrooms and their juices to the pan and stir to combine. Tuck the steaks and any juices into the mushroom-onion mixture, covering the steaks with some of the mushrooms and onions. Cover the pan and allow to simmer. After a few minutes, make sure that the liquid is at a gentle simmer and adjust the heat as needed. Simmer for 1 to 1 1/4 hours or until the steaks are fork tender.

Transfer the steaks to a serving platter, but leave the mushrooms and onions in the pan. Increase the heat to a boil and allow the liquid to reduce to a sauce-like consistency. Season to taste, then spoon the sauce over the steaks. Sprinkle with fresh parsley.

Doesn't this sound absolutely delicious? So I am going to make it. Of course, that means a Foodie Field Trip to the city to get flat iron steaks and cremini mushrooms. I have cooked with so many different cuts of meat over the years but honestly don't think flat iron steaks have ever been in my kitchen. First time for everything, right? So let's go shopping.......

Back in the kitchen- let's do this! I'm going to start out by prepping my vegetables and have them ready to go. No time for slicing and dicing later when a hot pan is waiting on you, so slicing the onion......

pounding the steaks, seasoning, dredging and all that good stuff.......

and now we are ready to heat our pan. I will be using a Dutch oven because I don't have a braiser pan yet but it will work great in this recipe. The first step is heating the oil and browning the steaks. A nice sear is all you need, you don't want to cook them completely at this stage. Remove to a plate and set aside. I use the upside down lid of my Dutch oven- saves a dish to wash later.

Onions come next and smell oh so good when they're cooking. Look at all that delicious fond building up on the bottom of the pot.

Mushrooms- out here in the country the only thing available was plain old white button mushrooms, but they work just fine. Slice them thickly for a heartier bite. Add the sherry to the pot and scrape up the browned bits on the bottom- those are the tastiest bits in the world and make the best sauce.

Make a cozy little spot in the onions to nestle the steaks for braising. I added 2 cups of beef stock to the pot so we would have lots of leftover pan juices. Cover and let the magic happen.

In just about an hour, you have a pot full of amazing.

I roasted some parsnips and carrots since I had the oven on (warming the house on this cold day) and even managed to slip a dessert in there to bake. The Chef was suitably impressed with this French-style dinner. We had plenty of the delicious beefy juices left over, I chopped up the remaining roasted veggies and tomorrow we'll be recycling that delicious pot into some lovely vegetable soup.

Remember, to get your own copy of Wini's wonderful cookbooks, click HERE. 

Disclosure of Material Connection: I have not received any compensation for writing this post. I have no material connection to the brands, products, or services that I mentioned. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 55: "Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising."