Waiter, there is a fungus in my soup!

The Chef and I are mushroom people. It's one of those things- you either are or you aren't. We love mushrooms of all kinds. We have been known to wander aimlessly in the woods looking for the elusive morel, and for bringing home creepy looking enoki mushrooms from the Asian grocery store. Stuffed, sauteed, fried, over a steak, dipped in sauce, you name it- we will eat it. So it's not surprise that since we're on a homemade soup kick mushrooms make an appearance. 

Another thing we are really into is roasting things. Especially vegetables- the high heat seals in flavor and brings a smoky element to whatever type of veggie you are roasting. In this recipe, the high heat brings out the earthiness of the mushrooms, caramelizes the leek and shallot and gives you lots of roasty toasty browned bits in the pan to add tons of flavor to the soup. I am cooking bacon in the oven at the same time so I'll add a drizzle of bacon drippings to really bring out the smokiness in the flavors. Deglazing the pan with cognac, which is a classic partner for mushrooms, brings a note of sophistication to the soup. Finished with cream, this soup has loads of character, flavor and warms you up on a chilly day. Homemade croutons and big bacon chunks finish it off with a rustic flair.

A quick word about mushrooms- The mushrooms I have chosen to use are easy to find in almost every supermarket. The typical package of mushrooms is 8 ounces and if you can't find all three types, or if you want to try a different mushroom, such as porcini, as long as you have a pound and a half, mix it up! I don't care for shiitake mushrooms much, but if you use them, remove and discard the entire stem-it's tough and woody. You can use just about any other mushroom except morels. Even if they are in season, they don't work well with roasting. If in doubt, just roast a few in the mix and taste test them. If you want to play it safe you can even use 3 packages of white button mushrooms and still have great results.

Creamy Mushroom Soup

• 1 pkg button mushrooms
• 1 pkg portobello mushrooms
• 1 pkg cremini mushrooms
• 3 leeks, cleaned well and chopped
• 3 medium shallots, chopped
• big pinch dried thyme, crumbled
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• salt and pepper
• 1/4 cup cognac
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1/3 cup heavy cream
• 8 slices bacon
• Homemade croutons 

Make croutons ahead of time and store in airtight container.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wipe mushrooms clean. Trim off stem ends. Halve or quarter any large button or cremini mushrooms. Cut the portobellos into similar size chunks. In a large roasting pan toss the mushrooms, leek, shallots, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for 20-45 minutes, stirring occasionally until mushrooms are brown and tender.

While the vegetables are roasting, place the bacon slices on a sheet pan with a rim that has been sprayed with cooking spray. Bake until crispy and brown. This should take about 20 minutes. Drain off about 1-2 tablespoons of bacon fat and toss with vegetables. Remove bacon from pan and drain on paper towels. Break into large pieces. Set aside for later.

When the vegetables are done, remove to a large bowl. Use the cognac to deglaze the roasting pan, stirring to loosen up any browned bits from the bottom. Add the broth. 

Working in batches, puree the vegetables with the broth mixture in a food processor. Pour into stockpot. Add the cream. Heat to serving temperature. Serve soup in bowls sprinkled with homemade croutons and several pieces of bacon per bowl. A teensy sprinkle of something green looks pretty too- fresh thyme leaves or minced parsley work nicely.

Homemade Croutons

• several slices crusty white bread
• 3-4 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, bruised

Cut the bread into large cubes. Set aside. In a small saucepan heat  the olive oil with the bruised garlic cloves. Allow to steep for at least an hour. Remove the garlic cloves (save for use in another recipe or throw in the vegetables when making this soup) and drizzle oil over the bread cubes- you may NOT need all of it. You can use the leftover oil in the soup or refrigerate and save for another use. Toast the bread cubes in a hot heavy skillet- good old fashioned cast  iron is great for this- until browned and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Simple and comforting- Weekend Beef Stew

It's so winter. It's cold. It's dreary. More snow and freezing rain on the horizon. It's the kind of day you stay inside and bundle up, watch tv all day with the cats and make some comforting winter food. Something that doesn't require a whole lot of babysitting so you can stay under the blanket as much as possible.

Winter is the season you either truly love, or truly hate. I have always been a lover of winter. I love the cold crisp air, the sparkling white snow twinkling at night, covering up all the ugliness in the world. Many people find this time of year to be depressing. Maybe because we're huddled inside our homes and not out enjoying the sunshine. Maybe it's the gray skies. Seems like people don't socialize as much either. We get swept up in the holiday furor and one that's over, we look at the calendar and sadly realize we won't have another love weekend until Memorial Day. This winter I am having some serious mixed emotions. I am absolutely thrilled to be back in the city, and thrilled to be closer to my family again. I'm enjoying my job and learning lots every day, but I'm also missing my mom a little more than usual. Especially when it comes to winter foods. My mom made some of the best winter foods- her lentil soup and chili are still the best I have ever had. Christmas leftovers always became Turkey Ala King or Ham and Beans or Scalloped Potatoes and Ham. My mom's vegetable beef soup was simply made and in no way gourmet but it was just so good. I miss that more than I can possibly express.

When I am needing comfort food I often turn to stews and when I want comfort food on a lazy day that I don't have to mess with all the time, I break out the trusty Crockpot! My beef stew recipe is pretty straight forward. Boneless beef, in this case I bought a family pack of something called Boneless Chuck Petite Mock Tender Steak- basically little round pieces of steak cut to look like filet mignon, seasoned with my favorite- Montreal Steak Seasoning, and dredged in flour and seared in bacon fat in my trusty cast iron skillet. Pile the beef in the Crockpot along with a few slices of bacon that have been cooked crisp and crumbled, then pile on the veggies- I used onion, garlic, a beautiful big fat fresh leek, button mushrooms that were halved, baby carrots and a package of baby gemstone potatoes- a pretty mix of red, purple and yellow baby tomatoes. I often choose this mix for French potato salad too because the colors are so vibrant and hold up to cooking.

The sauce gets its body and depth from tomato paste and homemade beef stock- made from simmering beef bones that had been roasted til golden and cooked until every bit of flavor has been coaxed out. Herbes de Provence and bay leaves add an earthy note. Deglazing the skillet also brings a ton of flavor to the sauce- all those delicious browned crusty bits in that skillet dissolve and flavor the sauce, yum. I think my beef stew in all its simplicity is the perfect one-dish meal.

Easy Weekend Beef Stew

2 lbs boneless beef

1 pound baby potatoes

1 pound baby carrots

1 small onion

1 leek

5 cloves garlic

1/2 pound mushrooms

freshly ground black pepper

flour

4 strips bacon

2 1/2 cups beef stock

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1/4 red wine, whisky or cognac

2 teaspoons Herbes de Provence

2 bay leaves

vegetable oil if needed

Cut the beef into good sized cubes and spread out onto a plate. Season with your favorite meat seasoning, or salt and pepper, and sprinkle evenly with flour. Set aside.

Wash the potatoes and carrots and set aside. Cut the onion into chunks. Slice the leek in half lengthwise, clean thoroughly under running water, and slice crosswise into 1/2 inch pieces. Mince the garlic cloves. Cut the bacon into 1/2 inch pieces. Wipe mushrooms with a damp cloth and cut in half.

Use a large cast iron skillet. Heat over medium high heat and add the bacon. Cook and stir until bacon is browned and crispy. Remove the bacon pieces and place in a crock pot. Working in batches, sear the beef until browned and remove to the crock pot. 

If you need more oil, add a tablespoon or so to the pan. Add the leeks and onions. Cook and store for a few minutes until onions are just starting to color. Add the garlic. After one minute add the mushrooms and cook another minute or two. Spoon vegetables over the meat in the crockpot. Add the potatoes and carrots. Add the herbs.

Deglaze the skillet with the wine (or you can use additional broth if you prefer), stirring to scrape up all the tasty browned bits on the bottom. Pour over the veggies and meat. Stir the tomato paste into the crock pot. Pour the beef stock over. Cover and cook on high about 3 hours until veggies are tender. Thicken the sauce with a cornstarch slurry, and serve with lots of crusty bread.

With a not so friendly forecast for winter weather I'm very thankful for a crock pot filled with leftovers to fill my house with yummy aromas and chase away the chillies.

Mom's Pork Roast, My Style

It's hotter than heck outside and I finished "butchering" my whole pork loins the other night and left out something in the fridge to cook, freezing the rest- a roast. What in the world was I thinking? It's summer in Iowa and I am going to make a roast...... 

I chose home canned green beans as the veggie.

My mom made roasts all year long, regardless of the temperature or season. Her cooking style was very utilitarian and "unfancy" and filled hungry tummies. I suppose that's because of her life in Germany and the very limited means of her parents and growing up in post-war Weisbaden. My parents were a unique blend of simple and extravagant. My dad was the foodie type and loved cooking and experimenting, while my mom cooked simple meals- lots of roasted meats, potatoes or noodles and a vegetable. My mom's pot roast was epic. She would sear it off in her black enameled roasting pan, and I swear she only knew how to use the highest temperature setting. After searing the meat she'd do the same with an onion, and it would be at least half very very browned, nearly charred. Those onions had so much flavor in spite of being a hair away from burned. Gravy always accompanied Mom's roast and it was a toss up if we'd be having potatoes, German potato balls, or noodles. My sister and I would be in the living room watching Gilligan's Island or I Dream of Jeannie in an oniony scented smoky haze while Mom busied herself in the kitchen. I love that smell to this day. Since I have these beautiful whole pork loins and cut them into pieces appropriate for The Chef and myself, a pork roast seems to be a natural choice. The roast I am making today will be based on Mom's style of cooking with some updates  of my own like using fennel and herbs. Mom never used anything green in food unless she was making spaghetti. 

Let's get started on the roast. You will need:

1 boneless pork loin roast 2-3 lb
1 large onion
1 or 2 bulbs fennel 
6 cloves fresh garlic
salt and pepper
cooking oil
2 cups chicken stock*
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon crushed dried sage
1 teaspoon crushed dried thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
cornstarch for thickening

Heat a Dutch oven or roasting pan over medium high heat. 

Chop the onion into large chunks. Slice the fennel bulb, reserving the stalks and fronds for later. Finely mince the garlic.

Add a couple tablespoons of oil to the pot. Add the roast, season with salt and pepper. Sear the meat on all sides until nicely browned. 

Remove to a plate. Add the onions to the pot, adding a touch more oil if needed. Allow the onions to cook undisturbed for several minutes so they get very browned and caramelized. 

Toss around and add the fennel. Cook until the fennel is also lightly caramelized. Add the garlic and cook for about a minute but don't let the garlic brown. Add the stock and one cup water and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the crusty bits from the bottom of the pot. Return the meat to the pot, and add the herbs except the parsley. Cover and place in a 300 degree oven and ignore for a good 3 or 4 hours.

When the meat is tender, remove from the pot and place on a plate; tent with foil. Use a slotted spoon to remove the vegetables from the pan juices. Taste the broth for seasoning. Adjust if necessary. 

Place the pot back on the burner and bring the liquid to a boil. Make a cornstarch slurry with a tablespoon or two of cornstarch and thicken the gravy. Add the parsley. 

Slice the roast and serve with the vegetables and gravy and spaetzle for an Erika style German meal.

*I used homemade turkey stock because that's what I happened to have on hand. You can use chicken, turkey, vegetable or pork stock if you have it. Even beef will work in a pinch, the important thing is bringing flavor to the finished gravy.

Now what the heck are spaetzle? The short answer is noodles, but noodles in Germany aren't quite same as in the U.S. Spaetzle are more like little dumplings and are so easy to make at home. They cook in no time, and get finished in a skillet with some melted butter to brown them so slightly. Snuggled up to a nice hunk of roast and draped with rich brown gravy- it's the ultimate in comfort food, German style.  Let's make some!

Spaetzle

2 cups all purpose flour

2 eggs

3/4 cup milk

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter, melted, plus more

pinch of nutmeg

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. A stand mixer makes it really easy- mix ingredients until a dough forms. Transfer dough to a large freezer bag. 

Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat.

Cut the corner off the bag- keep it SMALL- think no more than drinking straw size. Squeeze the dough into the boiling water, breaking it off every inch or two. You don't want long strands but you don't want little beads either. Work quickly to get all the dough into the water. 

Boil the noodles for 2 minutes. Drain the noodles well in a colander. Set aside.

Heat a medium skillet over medium high heat and add a couple tablespoons additional butter. Turn the spaetzle into the skillet and saute, stirring occasionally, until they start to turn golden brown. Remove to serving bowl and sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley to serve.

Let's talk for a minute about the fennel. Using fennel in this recipe was totally unlike my mother's style of cooking. I'm pretty sure she had never cooked or eaten a fresh fennel bulb, just wasn't her thing, and to the best of my memory Dad never grew them in the garden either. I've been on a quest the last couple years to incorporate more of these veggies that aren't as common into some of our dishes here. So fennel- if you've never had it, it's very fresh and crunchy veggie. It has a texture that reminds me of celery but it's not stringy. The bulb is very versatile and can be cooked just about any way and eaten raw. It's pretty popular in slaws and salads. The feathery fronds remind me of dill and are also very useful for adding another flavor element in your dishes. Fennel seeds as you probably know, are common in sausage and other foods. The seed heads also look like dill. Fennel is one of the main components in absinthe and yes, it does have a very strong licorice flavor, but that mellows tremendously when you cook it. 

I browned the fennel just like the onion and added it to the pot with everything else. It smelled incredible when browning and what it added to the finished dish was just wonderful. I didn't serve the vegetables, instead scooped them out and discarded them, using them just for flavor only. We had some home grown home canned green beans instead. The meat was so flavorful, just like Mom's! The spaetzle was so easy to make and so delicious. The little dumplings were tender and the browned crispy sides were the best part. The gravy was dark and rich and had a wonderful pork flavor. The roast- so so delicious. Roasting with those vegetables infused the meat with so many wonderful flavors. 

I'm sure my mother would have approved.

Winter Storm? Just make a pot of stew

Looks like our bizarre winter of weather in the 40s and 50s in January is coming to an end. A snowstorm is headed this way and finally, we will have some measurable snow to complain about. I'm actually looking forward to the snow. I have always been a winter lover, and while the last couple haven't been the greatest, with furnace problems, frozen waterlines and all sorts of other homeowner nightmares, I am looking forward to the beautiful snow.

Winter is also my favorite time of year for cooking. Roasting, braising, stews and soups, I love all of it. No one wants to heat up the house in August for a roast, but when the snowflakes are flying outside it's the perfect time. 

All my life I have made stew the way my mom did- chunks of meat, chunks of potatoes and carrots, all roasted together low and slow in the oven. That is the ultimate home cooking if you ask me. This time though I thought I'd try something just a little different. What if I roasted the vegetables on a sheet pan, instead of throwing them in the liquid? What would the texture be like? Would this even work? 

Folks, yes yes yes- this works, and it's definitely worth having a sheet pan to wash. The potatoes were tender on the inside but had texture on the outside, a nice crisp exterior from the roasting, and the carrots, that roasting brings out the sweetness in carrots like crazy. They were caramelized in spots, super sweet and so tender. Adding them to the gravy and meat at the last minute preserved the texture and gave good old stew a great big update.

Pork and Roasted Vegetable Stew

1 2-3 lb boneless pork sirloin roast

1 cup flour

2 tablespoons meat rub (we like Feiny's)

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne

cooking oil

1 onion, cut into chunks

4 cloves garlic, smashed

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon dried thyme

4 cups turkey stock

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 lb carrots, either baby carrots or peeled and cut into sticks

4-5 medium potatoes, scrubbed, cut in chunks (leave the peel on)

1 teaspoon meat rub (use the same as you do with the meat)

1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped

Heat the oven to 300 degrees.

Prep the meat by trimming any fat on the outside. Cut into thick slices, and then into good sized cubes/chunks. From this roast I cut 6 thick "chops" and cut each chop into 6 big chunks. In a shallow dish combine the flour, meat rub, pepper, paprika and cayenne. 

Heat a couple tablespoons of cooking oil in a Dutch oven. 

Dredge the meat in the flour and add to Dutch oven; brown the meat cubes well, without crowding. You will have to do it in batches. 

I always remove the browned meat to the upturned lid of the Dutch oven- saves me a dish to wash. 

Once all the meat is browned, add another tablespoon of oil if needed and add the onion to the pot. Cook and stir for a minute or so. Add the smashed garlic cloves. Cook for an additional minute. Stir in the marjoram and thyme, and tomato paste. Deglaze the pot with the turkey stock, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom.

Return the meat to the pot, cover and pop in the oven. The meat will need to cook about 2 hours.

About an hour before the meat is done, scrub and cut up the potatoes. Toss with carrots, a splash of oil and a teaspoon of the same meat rub. Spread out onto rimmed baking sheet. Roast in the oven alongside the meat until the vegetables are tender and browned; stir during roasting for even browning.

When vegetables are tender remove everything from the oven. The gravy with the meat should be nicely thickened, but if not, remove the meat with a slotted spoon and add a small amount of cornstarch slurry and cook over medium high heat til thickened. Return meat to gravy. Stir the vegetables into the meat and gravy. Sprinkle with parsley.

Serve in shallow bowls with bread for sopping up the gravy.

Like most "winter foods" you bet there were leftovers. You don't have so much of the same texture later, as the gravy does soften the potatoes, but the roasted flavor is preserved, and like similar favorites, this stew is just as delicious, if not more so, the next day.

As for that weather forecast, the missed it. We got a foot. Pass me the shovel, please.

The Best Mashed Potatoes I Ever Ate

So after Thanksgiving I bought a turkey. That's not something you hear all the time but I did. Most people are pretty sick of turkey after Thanksgiving and don't want to see one for a long long time. But since we don't host Thanksgiving at our house we never have turkey leftovers. My intent was to roast it, can some of the meat and make another batch of stock. However, a family emergency took me away from home for several days and we knew it wasn't going to happen. Turkey for dinner became the plan and I'll tell you what- the last of the turkey was probably the BEST meal I have had in a looong time. I did bring home the family's Thanksgiving bird remains and made stock that weekend so I had a few pints on the shelf already, and one of those became part of this delicious quick dinner also.

The Chef decided it was his turn to cook and I let him! He reheated the last of the turkey meat in some of that stock and made a delicious turkey gravy. Simple, homey and easy. What he served it over knocked my socks off and made me second-guess our family's traditional holiday side dish of Fat Ass Potatoes. Folks, mashed potatoes are comfort food no matter how you make them, but when you add some imagination to the pot like The Chef did they become an entirely different realm of food. These seriously belong on a restaurant menu- in some amazing steakhouse. What did he make?

Rustic Roasted Garlic and Sun Dried Tomato Mashed Potatoes

6 potatoes
1/3 cup sun dried tomatoes
3 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup half & half (plus more if needed)
1/4 cup sour cream
white pepper
salt

Begin by scrubbing the potatoes very thoroughly. You want to leave the skin on for this dish- hence the "rustic" character. You can cook the potatoes whole (The Chef always does for some reason) or cut them up. 

Place in a saucepan and fill with cool water. Bring to a boil and cook until fork tender.

Chop the sun dried tomatoes. Use the oil-packed tomatoes if you can, otherwise you want to soak the dry tomatoes in hot water until pliable and drain, discarding the water. 

In a skillet, melt the 2 tablespoons of butter. Mince the garlic cloves very finely and add to skillet. Cook over low heat until pan roasted and golden. Your garlic should be very soft golden and not brown.

When the potatoes have cooked, drain the water. Mash the potatoes with an electric hand mixer or potato masher, adding all the ingredients. You might need to add a little more half and half until you reach the consistency you like. Season with pepper and salt and serve immediately.

The Chef served these absolutely incredible potatoes with lots of turkey and gravy, and holy smokes it was delicious. These potatoes mean business folks- they truly would be heaven on a plate with a medium rare steak sizzling alongside them.

Oh ya........ there were NO leftovers this time. 

Lasagna Fresca on Friday

Most people probably don't think of lasagna as a summertime or "light" food. Rather, we remember the gooey, melty, cheesy pan of awesomeness that lasagna can be. But it doesn't have to be! I know the last thing I want to do on a hot and humid summer day is fire up the oven and have something heavy baking for an hour. Instead, I like this lighter, more summery and definitely fresh version of lasagna.

This lasagna reminds me of caprese salad, or bruschetta, without the bread. The combination of freshly sliced tomato, cheese, fresh basil- so classically Italian and such a modern take on traditional lasagna. You can drizzle the rolls with just a little bit of balsamic vinegar before rolling up if you like too (I like to reduce it slightly and keep it on hand in the fridge)- brings out the caprese influence big time.

I love to make this and close my eyes as I sit down to dinner, imagining myself at a quaint little trattoria or sidewalk cafe in the early evening, the warm breeze barely blowing, olive trees shading me from the sun. A perfect glass of wine, the best fresh bread you can imagine, and this dish.....

Even the marinara sauce doesn't have to be something you have had to cook for hours all day. I love to buzz some tomatoes in the food processor, add a touch of garlic and some fresh basil, freshly cracked black pepper- again, light and fresh. Makes the perfect topping for this dish. Make sure you stick with Roma tomatoes, or if you find them- San Marzano tomatoes. Regular tomatoes will work but they tend to be too juicy and the dish will be too liquidy. Not what you're looking for at all.

So let's get cooking!

Lasagna Fresca

9 lasagna noodles- NOT the no-cook type
1 1/2 cups shredded mozzarella
15 oz container ricotta cheese
1 egg
1/4 cup parmesan cheese
4-5 Roma tomatoes
big handful chopped fresh basil
marinara sauce (use your favorite recipe)

Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain but do not rinse. Lay in single layer on waxed paper and set aside. 

Slice the Roma tomatoes and allow to sit on paper towels for a few minutes if they are super juicy. Sometimes they are not very juicy and that's fine. We don't want soggy pasta here.

I am sad to say I was FORCED to buy supermarket tomatoes.
It's just too early for homegrown tomatoes in Iowa.

Mix one cup mozzarella, the ricotta, Parmesan and egg in bowl until well blended. Spread cheese mixture on lasagna noodles, spreading evenly. Top with slices of tomato, sprinkle with chopped fresh basil. 

I know you have seen this technique before, but believe it or not,
people have been making lasagna rolls long before Pinterest was invented.

Roll up and place seam side down in baking dish that has been spread with a small amount of marinara sauce. Spoon sauce over rolls and sprinkle with remaining cup of mozzarella cheese. 

Bake in 375 degree oven for 30-45 minutes or until hot and bubbly. 

My sauce was very simple- 5 cloves garlic, minced, sauteed in a tablespoon of olive oil until softened, 2 cups tomato puree and a tablespoon of chopped basil, simmered for a few minutes. It was light and fresh with great tomato flavor and no "heaviness" like cook-all-day sauce.

Do you know what else I like about this lasagna? No meat! We eat too much meat as it is. Serve this lasagna with a fresh tossed salad of mixed baby greens, olives, peppers, and a light balsamic vinaigrette and skip the fatty hamburger, sausage and meatballs this time. You can make that stuff again when it's cold outside! Instead of being heavy, in spite of the cheesy filling, the sliced tomato cooks softly, not to a mush and retains that freshness. The basil leaves just a touch of its anise flavor notes and the smooth ricotta is so delicious. I just skipped the salad and had a slice of crusty baguette to soak up the juicy tomato cheese remnants. Perfect easy dinner and looks impressive enough for guests.