Iowa Sweet Corn Gets Some Latin Lovin'

Photo from Iowa On A Plate

Here in Iowa we know a thing or two about sweet corn. How to grow it, cook it, sell it. We celebrate sweet corn with annual festivals devoted to this tasty summer treat. At the State Fair roasted ears of corn are gobbled up by hungry fairgoers by the ton. Growing up in Iowa it wasn't unusual to have a dinner of just a huge pot of freshly cooked sweet corn, dressed up with only butter and salt. Oh my yum. Much loved by people all over, sweet corn is often used in non-traditional foods such as sweet corn sodas and ice cream, even candy. 

Driving around Iowa you will see acre after acre of corn. This corn is used for all sorts of things- animal feed, food, fuel production, but it's not sweet corn. Iowa produces thousands of acres of sweet corn annually. There are hundreds of different cultivars, some heirloom and some hybrids. Some of the heirlooms are hundreds of years olds, as sweet corn was first identified in the late 1700s. Peaches and Cream is a very popular variety around Iowa, as is Silver Queen, and this year I have even seen pink sweet corn in the stores. 

Here is a fun fact: Did you know there is one strand of silk for every kernel on the ear of corn? 

Laura Duffield Beigger makes
a spicy corn stock with jalapeno

So sweet corn. While so many of us love our corn drenched in butter and salt, corn is getting some gourmet treatment these days. Far far away from Iowa, different cultures and different cuisines use our beloved sweet corn in many interesting and delicious dishes. Many Latin dishes, for example, use corn, ground, as flour and kernels. Mexican street corn is often roasted in the husks, and then peeled back and sprinkled with seasonings and queso fresco or cojita before serving. Corn is roasted and charred and cut off the cobs to toss in salads and salsas. Corn cobs get recycled into corn cob jelly and corn stock for delicious soups and sauces. My friend Laura Biegger recently made corn stock with some jalapeno for kick- I think this would be a fantastic base to build an awesome seafood chowder. Let's take a look at a couple unique ways to use Iowa sweet corn in recipes, this time with a Latin twist.

Up first is a fantastic recipe from local restaurateur George Formaro. His Malo restaurant in Des Moines is an upscale Latin spot in the heart of downtown and brings a fresh and unique perspective to Mexican and South American dishes. We have visited Malo a couple times, you might remember. Their Corn Queso is a very special twist on a classic Mexican snack and brings the much loved fresh Iowa sweet corn into the spotlight. While Malo uses a locally sourced frozen corn, you could easily substitute freshly cut sweet corn as a replacement. They graciously shared this recipe on their Facebook page a while back.

Malo's Corn Queso

1 lb easy melting cheese such as Queso Seguro or Velveeta

4 cups Iowa Choice Harvest frozen sweet corn

1 cup water

1 lime, juice and zest

1 tbs salt

1 tbs extra virgin olive oil

3 tbs crumbled Cojita cheese, queso fresco is a suitable alternative

Using a food processor, puree the corn with the water until completely smooth. Heat the olive oil in saucepot and add pureed corn. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly. Allow mixture to simmer and reduce to a creamy consistency. 

Once a light pudding texture is reached, combine with salt, lime juice and zest and puree/process to eliminate any possible lumps. 

Melt the cheese over low heat until smooth. Fold in the corn mixture. Pour into a heat resistant serving bowl and top with crumbled Cojita cheese. Broil until the Cojita is browned and golden. Serve with tortilla chips. 

At Malo they use the corn pudding mixture in other dishes, and as a sauce for crab cakes.

Another popular use for fresh corn is salsa. The old days of nothing but tomato-based salsa are long over. Veggies and fruits of all kinds end up in salsa, sweet and savory alike. While I do love a good traditional salsa I'm a huge fan of corn salsa and black bean salsa. Combine the two and I'm in heaven! This salsa is easy to whip up for a party and if you had a lot of leftovers, you could pop it in the freezer for longer storage. I love it with chips and as a condiment for other foods, like enchilada, tacos and so on.

Deb Campbell's beautiful Iowa sweet corn, ready for the pot

Roasted Fresh Sweet Corn and Black Bean Salsa

2 ears fresh corn

olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup chopped sweet bell pepper (I use a combo of colors)

1-2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained

fresh Jalapeno pepper to taste*

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

zest of one lime

pinch of salt and pepper

dash of cumin, if desired

* I start with one Jalapeno and taste for heat. I also sometimes use any other hot pepper I might have around, including some of the super hots. Do so with caution!

Shuck the corn and wash well, removing all the silks. Rub the corn with a small bit of olive oil and roast the ears over a hot grill or under the broiler until some of the kernels are caramelized and golden. Set aside to cool. 

When cool enough to handle, slice the corn from the cobs and place in a bowl. Toss with all remaining ingredients. Taste for seasoning and adjust salt and pepper as needed. This salsa is also delicious with a diced avocado added. and piled in a taco salad. 

Disclosure of Material Connection: I have not received any compensation for writing this post. I have no material connection to the brands, products, or services that I mentioned. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 55: "Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising."

Cooking with George

It's really great to reconnect with a friend you haven't seen in forever. I'm very fortunate to have friends that share a lot of my interests, especially food and drink. It's been a long time since I've seen my friend Vivian. We met at church a good ten or more years ago and stayed in touch all these years through the wonders of social media. We've had kids grow up, lives take very unexpected and shocking turns, and the miracle of grandbabies, and here we are- two girls on the town with something really fun planned!

Vivian, Chef George, and me

I absolutely love taking cooking classes. Even if it's something I already make, I love it. Love meeting people, learning new techniques, seeing the food from a different chef's perspective and tasting new dishes. I was browsing the internet a couple weeks ago, visiting some of the many pages I follow all the time and read that my favorite new Latin restaurant, Malo (you've seen us visit Malo before and after opening), is hosting a series of demonstrations/classes called Cooking With George. 

George Formaro is the executive chef and restaurateur who owns this fantastic new restaurant and the menu sounds absolutely fantastic. I was fortunate enough to watch George do a demonstration at The World Food Festival a couple years ago and really enjoyed his presentation. He prepared barbecoa and HINTED at a new restaurant in the works with a Latin twist. 

So the series- four different menus on four different days; a four course dinner with wine pairings and George's expert tips and techniques. What were the options?

January 10- Mexican Bistro- Crab cake with chile and cilantro slaw; mixed greens with agave jalapeno vinaigrette with diced apple, crispy bacon, toasted pumpkin seeds and queso fresco; street style roasted chicken with tomatillo salsa, bacon, and corn relish and the Chef's Choice for dessert.

February 13- George's Latin Flavors- Chipotle shrimp with garlic sauce and mushrooms; mixed greens with cilantro lime dressing, corn relish, queso frescoand tortilla strips; short rib birria with salsa borracha, hominy, crispy prosciutto and spinach; and Chef's Choice dessert.

March 17- Modern Mexican- Lobster and Brie quesadilla with corn salsa; mixed greens with pumpkin seed crusted goat cheese, radish, onion, cucumber, honey, tomatillo and jalapeno vinaigrette; chile-rubbed ribeye steak with mashed potatoes, demi glace and smokey green beans and Chef's Choice dessert.

April 10- Old School Classics- Modern Manchego cheese dip "fondue" with Pacifico beer, chorizo, corn and green chiles; Mexican street snack with cucumber, mango, pineapple, papaya, jicama, chile and lime; Pork carnitas with salsa verde, cheddar grits and chioptle onion demi glace and Chef's Choice dessert.

Amazing, right? I want to go to them ALL really........but so far I have had to pick just one. So January 10 is my day. I'm super excited to see George's take on crab cakes, one of my very favorite foods, and I'm already hungry for dessert! 

The setup was great- a private room gave the group a lot of privacy and space and George had the perfect demonstration set up- even included an overhead camera with a television monitor so we could see the action in the pan or bowl. To kick off our evening of food and fun- a round of Malo house margaritas. Without a doubt, one of the best margaritas I have ever had. The recipe is a secret and I can understand why. This cocktail was just fantastic, made in a shaker and strained into a salt-rimmed glass, not on the rocks or blended. 

Chef George started off preparing the appetizer- Crab cake with chili and cilantro slaw. The slaw was the perfect blend of creamy, crunchy and a teeny bit of heat. He held back the heat a bit to make it more friendly for everyone in the group and I would use just a touch more chipotle and jalapeno. I'll definitely be making this slaw. George said it was a great topping for fish tacos, and I agree! The crab cake was plump with sweet crab and crunchy on the outside, flavorful and just perfect. 

The crab cake and salad course were accompanied by one of the best white wines I have ever tasted- a 2012 Txomin Etxaniz Getaria. I have never tasted this wine before but it was perfect. Very herby, citrusy and definitely acidic enough to easily sit next to a crab cake and light enough to stand next to the salad plate. I'll be hunting far and wide for this wine.

You don't normally think of salad when you go out for Latin food but George tossed simple salad greens with some inventive toppings and a fantastic dressing to make mixed greens with agave jalapeno vinaigrette with diced apple, crispy bacon, toasted pumpkin seeds and queso fresco. He made the dressing using an immersion blender and created this fantastic, thick and creamy dressing with citrus, cilantro, chilies. Delicious! 

For the entree George talked about brining and what kind of results you can get from this simple step or prep that a lot of people wouldn't think of. George prepared street style roasted chicken with tomatillo salsa, bacon, and corn relish. The skin-on boneless chicken got a nice bath in brine, then crisped in a hot skillet and finished in the oven. A quick fresh corn salsa and a bright and herby roasted tomatillo salsa finished the chicken perfectly, and made a fantastic sauce for the crushed and fried potatoes.

I was surprised to hear that George recommends cooking chicken, especially dark meat, to 200 degrees. I always thought that would be overcooked and dry but the brining helps prevent that. This chicken was so delicious and the skin- yes, I know it's not healthy but it is soooo delicious!

To pair with the chicken, we had a 2012 Tres Exilos Bonarda from Argentina. On the nose it was all grape, jammy and fruity. To taste, it was just slightly dry, very smooth and reminded me of grenache, one of my favorite red grapes. This wine would also be a perfect sangria wine.

Speaking of sangria, might as well start off the evening with a
glass of Malo's house sangria. Fantastic!

A quick word about the potatoes- they were a surprise! Cooked baby Yukon gold potatoes got a little smash under the chef's palm and then a few minutes in the fryer to create these crispy "raggedy" potatoes with crispy skin and tons of flavor.

Dessert was "Chef's Choice" and of course, since Malo is a Latin restaurant I was hoping and hoping it would be.....and YES it was...... FLAN!! So creamy and delicious, bathed in caramel, not too rich and not too light- just the right finish, paired with a fantastic Mexican coffee- coffee, rum, Tia Maria, a fluff of whipped cream dusted with cinnamon. I'm not a big coffee fan but I chugged that coffee! I wish I had another cup right now......

We all received a copy of the recipes George prepared this evening, to take home and recreate (and you bet I will!). After dinner was finished, and questions asked and answered, George spent time with the guests, talking about all sorts of things- how he got his start, where he went to school and where he likes to eat when he is not working. He and I had our Cookbook Conversation and Vivian and I had a great time catching up and talking about life. With three more Cooking with George events and four Malo Wine Classes coming up....... I just might be very busy!

Restaurant Review: Shakedown, thunderstorms and celebrating

Today was a WONDERFUL day. Lots to be thankful for. A new and exciting career change for my Chef, my son's birthday, my grandson's baseball games, my awesome children, my sister graduates from nursing school, and my middle child reaches a momentous step in her career path- managing the newest, hottest Latin restaurant in Des Moines.  

Whew! Take a deep breath, and concentrate. The shakedown- that's what we're here to talk about. Maybe you've had the unfortunate experience of going out to a brand new restaurant in town, only to be disappointed by less than stellar food, chaotic service, and an overall bad first impression. Des Moines has several amazing chefs that shape our city's culinary identity, and without doubt, George Formaro is at the top. When he opens a new restaurant, there is always "the shakedown"- before opening, the staff's family and close friends are invited to check out the menu, restaurant, and enjoy dinner on the house. It's a great way to shake out the issues BEFORE opening day, before you have a house full of paying customers, a great way to test the staff for training and make sure the menu is exactly what you want.

We already had a preview of the new Malo. The restaurant opens in 6 days and these last several days are their trial run. Tonight I was able to check out the food and drink and you better believe I was not disappointed, even though the weather was raging outside, and the power went out for several minutes in the restaurant. We barely made it in the door before Mother Nature unleashed her fury! Enough about the weather. Now, Des Moines has Mexican restaurants on just about every corner. This is NOT your average Mexican. It's an eclectic mix of Latin flavors with a few American twists thrown in for fun. The menu is amazing. No jalapeno poppers in the appetizer selections here. Oh no, instead you will find pupusas, a traditional Salvadoran food; seafood nachos piled high with shrimp, lobster and crab; giant house-made tator tots served with jalapeno ketchup, beer cheese sauce and salsa blanco, and much much more.

First order of business for us- a cocktail. Malo Punch for my sister, and Rum Rickey for me. The Malo Punch was a playful combo of Sailor Jerry, Captain Morgan and fruit juices, and falernum- not something you see used much in bars around here. My Rum Rickey was bright and fruity. White rum, raspberry gastrique and soda- very refreshing. We couldn't resist the Pineapple Mojito- rum, triple sec,pineapple juice, soda and mint leaves- a perfect summer cocktail.

Rum Rickey and Malo Punch

Tacos anyone? Malo has tacos- twelve different kinds, three different shell options and more flavor than you can imagine. Enchiladas? Try a Texas Gulf shrimp enchilada with salsa blanca for a fantastic change of pace. Steaks and seafood are given the Malo treatment and flavors shaped by Latin-inspired seasonings. 

Al Pastor taco and Carne Molida taco on house made flour tortillas

The most delicious enchiladas I have ever had- Texas Gulf shrimp

Hungry? Try the giant Tijuana Trainwreck- a colossal casserole dish filled with chorizo, tortillas, tomatoes, onion, avocado, salsa roja, cilantro crema and topped with a fried egg. 

You can get your pasta fix with Shrimp and Chorizo Fettucine, Ravioli de Maiz- jalapeno, lime, Cotija cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach and salsa blanca or Nacho Daddy's Mac & Cheese- a macaroni nacho dish with all the Mexican flavors. Even the sides are different and unique. Drunken Beans, Jalapeno Creamed Corn, Hominy with garlic and spinach, Tostones, Cilantro Rice, and much more.

Black beans and Cilantro Rice

Dessert will not leave you one bit disappointed. Mexican Chocolate Lava Cake is pure heaven on a plate. Chocolate gelato and fresh raspberries make this a beautiful dessert. The real star of the dessert menu is the Cubans and Coffee- chocolate "cigars", a truffle sort of dessert, rolled in cocoa and served with a scoop of coffee gelato and powdered sugar "ashes" in a pristine white ashtray. So clever and soooooo melt in your mouth amazing. Make sure you save room- it won't be easy. The portions are generous and the food so delicious you won't want to.

Powdered sugar "ashes" in an ashtray

The decor remains outstanding in the finished restaurant. Unique fixtures, perfect tableware, and a beautiful patio make Malo one of the most impressive restaurants in Des Moines. 

Of course, the mom in me has to brag up a little on my daughter. Laurie has worked in three different businesses owned by George Formaro, starting as a part-timer at Gateway Market, moving over to Zombie Burger in the East Village and now, reaching a goal for her- restaurant management at Malo. Where many parents would have been shocked and recommended their child NOT leave their corporate job, I trusted Laurie's judgment and experience. She will be a phenomenal manager. I am a very proud mom.

So there you have it- my shakedown wrap-up. I hope you will visit Malo in Des Moines. You're in for a really wonderful experience!

Sneak Peek- the Latin side of George Formaro

As if the zombies weren't enough of a clue, now it's obvious- he is going to take over the world!!!! The culinary world in Des Moines, Iowa, that is. Who is he? Chef George Formaro, Des Moines native, horror film enthusiast, restaurant genius. Founder of several outstanding and successful restaurants in Des Moines and partner of Orchestrate Management, he has added another feather to his cap, this time with a Latin flair- Malo. Back in 2012 I sat in on a cooking demo of George's at the World Food Festival in Des Moines. He prepared barbecoa and hinted at a new venture with a Latin flair. Starting mid-May, we will all get to experience the new Malo.

The old saying "It's all about who you know" really does hold a lot of truth. I happen to know the manager of this brand-new, not-yet-opened restaurant and today was treated to a tour of the restaurant. Of course The Chef and I said YES! I have never worked in nor opened a brand new restaurant. I've been in a couple kitchens over the years (of course The Chef has opened and worked in MANY kitchens) so for me this was a particularly exciting tour. Malo is housed in the old Des Moines Fire House #1. 

Just needs some outdoor signage!

The patio and trees will soon fill the sidewalk

Malo shares the building with The Des Moines Social Club, which is another fun-filled nightspot many locals love. Inside Malo's expansive dining room are very few reminders of the old fire station, but the hole in the ceiling where the pole once was is still visible. 

The main dining room is enormous. Bench style seating lines a dividing wall and has beautifully designed upholstery in muted versions of the bright ceiling tiles suspended above and crocodile embossed seating.

West End Architectural Salvage designed much of the accents in the dining room, repurposing interesting materials to give the walls some texture. The tables are beautifully finished wood, and the bar-side seating features plenty of high-top and large-group tables, interesting artwork, and unique lighting. 

I LOVED the light fixtures. The hostess station was also designed by West End Salvage and is surrounded by amazing artwork.

But the kitchen........oh the kitchen. All the stainless steel appliances, sixteen burners, ovens, stacks of gleaming saute pans, stainless steel utensils lining the racks. 

Something I have never seen before, a state of the art tortilla press, sits ready for house-made tortillas. Walk-ins as big as my HOUSE. Part of the kitchen is "open" to the bar area, and there is an expansive prep area behind that. I can just imagine the energy in the room when the restaurant opens and the staff is juggling tickets and making it all come together. 

In addition to all the indoor seating Malo will also feature a large patio street-side and a large courtyard in the back with seating for dining and an outdoor movie theater. Large banquet facilities are on the second floor of the old fire house. It's truly an amazing location.

Sorry about the burry snap- I was just too excited and in awe!

Because my "in" at Malo is the new manager, my daughter Laurie, I am looking forward to the preview friends and family tasting- I can't wait to check out the menu and see the finished space and all the amazing dishes created by George and his chefs. If it's anything like the barbecoa........it's going to be killer!