Shopping for Flavor- Penzey's

The catalog comes in the mail every few weeks. The temptation is there all over again, that insatiable need to go.........to smell.......to wander..........to use that free coupon. When I walk through the door all my common sense goes out the window and is replaced with a need to buy all the things. All the things.

Where exactly is this place that immediately turns me into a helpless soul wandering about, filling my basket with amazing tastes and smells? Penzey's of course! 

If you have never been inside a Penzey's store you really need to find one. They have everything you need to fully stock a kitchen with herbs and spices. They also carry a large selection of Penzey's blended seasoning mixes, many of which are salt free. From the French classics like Fines Herbes and Herbes de Provence to Penzey's favorites like Forward and Northwoods Seasoning, Bicentennial Rub and Rocky Mountain Seasoning, you will find exactly what you're looking for to make your recipes perfect.

It's been a few years since I signed up for the catalog. It's my favorite thing to get in the mail. There is always a coupon for a free product, often times it's a brand new product like a new seasoning blend, and once in a while it's Pick Your Favorite. This time around it's your choice of four different spices/blends in a new larger 3/4 cup sized resealable bag. The catalog is filled with all the amazing products they carry and interesting stories about folks who cook with the herbs and spices, including recipes. I've made many different foods from these recipes and enjoyed them all.

This trip to Penzey's I made a shopping list ahead of time. I needed a few things to complete some recipes I'm working on. Mustard seeds, for the new mustard recipes I have been playing with and can't wait to try, chipotle peppers for a home canned version of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, and of course a few things that accidentally ended up in my basket. How did that happen?

Now the recipes in the catalog are really great. From a very simple grilled chicken to more complicated curries and baking recipes, there is something for every skill level and they are all from other Penzey's users so every month it's more cooking magazine than catalog, plus the stories are very interesting and fun to read. In this current catalog there is a super fast chicken recipe that anyone can make, and the picture......is so mouth watering!

Grilled Northwoods Chicken
recipe from Penzey's

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts
Northwoods Seasoning
2 tsp olive oil or cooking spray

Pound the chicken breasts evenly until they are about 1/4 inch thick, Sprinkle liberally with Northwoods Seasoning on both sides. Cover and refrigerate up to an hour.

Rub the grill lightly with olive oil or spray with cooking spray. Heat the grill to medium high heat. Place the chicken on the grill and cook until lightly browned, about 3-5 minutes. Turn the chicken and cook until browned on the other side, another 3-5 minutes. Serve with grilled aspargus.

Isn't that easy? What a great weeknight dinner when you're just too tired to do much. I like making these chicken breasts, slicing them, and keeping them on hand for tossing on a salad for a quick lunch. Grilling also means a lot less cleanup, but if you don't have a grill you can saute these chicken breasts just as easily in a skillet. Now head over to Penzey's! They offer online shopping if you don't have a store nearby.

Disclosure of Material Connection: I have not received any compensation for writing this post. I have no material connection to the brands, products, or services that I mentioned. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 55: "Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising."

Sitting Down With a Good Book- The French Laundry Cookbook

A while back I spent the night at my daughter's house. I never pass up a chance to spend the night and watch over her "kids"- Napoleon the Chihuahua and Sebastian the Siamese cat. It was a mini-vacation of sorts, a time for The Chef and I to have some necessary alone time and a chance for me to unwind with a really really good book- Thomas Keller's The French Laundry Cookbook.

You might remember meeting my daughter Laura in a prior post about all the food industry pros in my family. She manages a popular restaurant downtown Des Moines and, just like her mom, has an interest in enjoying good food of all kinds and learning as much as she can about the culinary field. I was beyond delight when I found out she had this amazing cookbook and couldn't wait for the next overnight. I thought I had my chance back on Valentines Day, but Mother Nature threw a wrench- and a snowstorm- in my plans and caused my daughter to abandon her plans to travel. 

Staying in her adorable little bungalow is a real treat. Nestled in the historic Beaverdale neighborhood in Des Moines, the house is so cute, decorated beautifully, and a true oasis from an otherwise hectic world. Warm hardwood floors, soft and soothing wallcolors, modern and eclectic art on the walls and contemporary furniture bring it all together in a very inviting way. No heavy curtains dragging the windows down, she instead chose the clean lines of wooden blinds, in white to match the wood trim. Scented candles ensure her home has a welcoming fragrance, even if they aren't lit. 

What makes this house such a respite from the chaos outside? It's quiet. There is no cable tv, no satellite tv, no internet. No distractions. No noise. No commercials, no sitcoms, no bad movies. Why is this so wonderful? In her life, particularly, noise is part of the job. As a busy restaurant manager she s always on the go, always putting out fires, dealing with employee and customer needs, back office, front of house, customer service, scheduling, labor costs, overhead, ordering- you get the idea. So here I am, in this little haven, just me and the fur kids, and THAT cookbook.

The French Laundry is a restaurant in Napa Valley, California, but you probably already knew that, and Thomas Keller is the owner/chef. The son of a restaurateur he began his career working for his mother in her restaurant and drawn in by the magic of Hollandaise sauce he took off, cooking and apprenticing at some of the most incredible restaurants in the world. Many awards have been bestowed up Chef Keller. In 1999 he published The French Laundry Cookbook and the world has not been the same since.

And so I finally got my chance to settle in to the corner of that comfy sectional ouch in that quiet little bungalow with no electronic distractions, and slowly turn the pages. I am immediately drawn in. I had heard from other food nuts that the cookbook is pretentious and unrealistic- that no home cook could or would ever prepare these recipes. Pure nonsense. Honestly, with the exception of a few recipes involving an entire whole foie gras roasted or poached (and who can afford that??) everything in the book was very accessible to the regular cook like me. I am quite obsessed by canapes, hors d'oeuvres and cocktail party foods, and the first chapters filled my heart with joy. Pastry cornets filled with salmon tartare- the only way I can stand salmon is raw, and pastry work is my niche, how can I possibly NOT want to make this recipe? Quail eggs and bacon- a no brainer. Yukon Gold Potato Blini. Again, this is absolutely something I would make. 

I made a list. Things I Am Going To Cook From The French Laundry Cookbook. You better believe I did. First on the list? The Lobster Broth. The technique is fairly simple, not unlike stock-making,and the ingredients are not that out of line for a regular person like myself. I can come up with lobster bodies. Tarragon is growing in the garden. The rest is easy peasy. I wonder if I will be able to find anyone to volunteer as a taste-tester?

Thomas Keller's Creamy Lobster Broth

1/4 cup canola oil
3 lobster bodies, cut up
1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped carrots
1 bunch fresh tarragon
2 cups heavy cream

Heat the oil in a large rondeau or deep straight-sided braising pot. Add the lobster bodies and sear over medium high heat for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until they turn red. Add the tomatoes, carrots, and tarragon, cover the shells and vegetables with water, and bring to a boil. Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce heat and simmer for one hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer, pressing on the lobster bodies with a wooden spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Strain again through a chinois into a saucepan. Return the strained stock to the heat and simmer until it is reduced to 1 cup. Add the heavy cream. Return to simmer and cook until reduced to 2 cups, skimming as necessary. 

To serve, heat in a saucepan, whisking to a slight froth. Serve in demitasse cups as a light hors d'oeuvre. 

Sounds amazing, doesn't it? My dream vacation would include a meal at The French Laundry, among others. This sounds like an extravagant dish to prepare but really, 3 lobsters aren't all that expensive if you catch them on sale. I've seen them in our local gourmet market for under ten dollars for a lobster- which would be perfect for a nice lobster dinner, and reserving the bodies for this recipe. Even the technique is not too technical that even a beginner couldn't reproduce this beautiful soup with ease. This one is destined to be a favorite around here.

Disclosure of Material Connection: I have not received any compensation for writing this post. I have no material connection to the brands, products, or services that I mentioned. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 55: "Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising."

Food Culture

I was driving home by myself today after a job interview and decided to stop into Half Price Books real quick and see what they had on the shelves. They moved to a new bigger location a while back and I hadn't been there yet. Only one section was of interest to me today, and after making a couple selections and heading home, I found myself thinking about food culture, and how much my "hobbies" are influenced by it. I asked myself, what exactly IS "food culture" anyway? What does that mean?

So I broke out the laptop when I got home and did a little research. The first thing I found was a definition, from ExperimentalStation-  the cultivation, distribution, preparation, and appreciation of delicious and healthy food. Sounds pretty spot on. The Huffington Post  and numerous other websites have an entire sections on their websites devoted to food culture. I'm obviously onto something here. If I had to come up with a definition of food culture I think I would say that food culture is a combination of food-influenced experiences, from the basic vegetable garden to food-centered travel, education, and entertainment with people of similar interests. 

When talking about cultivation of food we can start right in the backyard of many Americans- in the backyard vegetable garden. Flower gardens are lovely but you cannot (generally speaking) eat them. As an Iowan I can tell you there is nothing better in the summer than a big fat juicy tomato, still warm from the sun and stifling humidity of the August garden, sliced and piled on a sandwich. There is nothing better, except maybe a big platter of steaming hot buttery Iowa sweet corn. I know I have many friends that share just this one commonality with me- we love to garden, and we grow our own food.

My garden, full of tomatoes, peppers, radishes, beans 

Another popular summer activity around here that definitely fits into the definition of food culture is the farmers market. I can't speak for every city, but Des Moines has one of the best farmers markets in the country. Every Saturday morning the entire Court Avenue District is transformed into a bustling outdoor market, with dozens and dozens of vendors- fresh produce, ethnic foods, handmade items, baked goods, garden plants, organic meats and eggs- everything you can think of. Food culture at it's finest and definitely fits into the distribution category of the definition. Besides the huge downtown market, many smaller markets pop up all over the city, the suburbs, and small towns across the state. You may choose not to have a garden, or may not be able to, but you still have access to some of the finest fresh produce in the world. For someone like me the farmers markets are a great source for vegetables and fruits that I don't want to mess with growing. I don't need a plantation sized garden AND I get to know some of the growers, meet friends, and before you know it, food culture is once again an influence on my life.

Culinary Fight Night, January 11, 2015

Preparation- in Iowa, be prepared to have your tastebuds rocked. Des Moines has evolved into quite an interesting place for exploring food culture. The city boasts some of the country's most progressive chefs and food professionals, and is home to some out of this world food-themed festivals and conventions. There was once a time when you had to book a hotel and flight to a much larger city to experience food and wine festivals and things of that nature, but not anymore. The state of Iowa has more than a hundred wineries, distilleries and breweries that produce some of the best products in the country. Des Moines is buzzing with them- a winery sits just south of downtown, which isalso home to several cool breweries. You can learn to make your own wine, brew your own beer, attend cooking classes of all kinds. Cooking competitions between professional chefs and home cooks are fun to attend. Des Moines and small towns alike offer some of the best restaurants around, all price ranges, all different kinds of cuisines, casual and kid friendly to starched tablecloth formal. You don't need to visit New York or Chicago for a James Beard nominated chef to prepare your meal- you can get that right here.

Appreciation.......oh I appreciate it alright. My own life is totally immersed in food culture. For me, reading a book means pulling a cookbook off the shelf and reading cover to cover. No sitcoms for me, rather I spend my television time watching cooking shows, documentaries about food, even movies that are centered around a common theme- food. With a chef in my life I am never without a wonderful meal or new way to prepare a dish. It's even grown within my family. One of my daughters gave up a successful corporate career to pursue a completely new career path- restaurant management. Just so happens she works with one of those James Beard Award nominees. She also shares her life with a chef- who has an impressive professional resume as well. For them, travel is to a food destination- weekend in New York City visiting Michelin Star restaurants for chefs' tastings, a quick trip to Austin to explore the food truck scene.

Being so immersed in food culture influences so many aspects of my life. My pop culture icons are completely different than, say, a hardcore sports fan's might be. I will stand in line for the chance to meet and get an autograph from a celebrity chef that I follow. It's actually kind of funny to think about it- how easily my interests morphed into this. I've always had an interest in cooking and certainly my childhood helped feed that interest- my dad was the 70s version of a foodie, always watching cooking shows on PBS, collecting cookbooks, and taking the family to all different kinds of restaurants at home in Minnesota, Iowa, on weekends in Chicago and even all over Europe. Not many elementary kids can say they ate steak tartare at a cafe in Stuttgart, or grilled trout caught minutes before (by my dad) and a catch-your-own place in Italy. It's safe to say, I grew up surrounded by food culture.

Home canning is a food culture all of its own.

It's not a bad thing, not at all. If anything it's a real gift. I feel like I can make informed choices about food, I know where my food comes from and I know how to prepare it so it retains as many nutrients as possible. I love trying new foods, learning new techniques and making new friends who share this passion. I can pickle my own vegetables and bake a dacqouise, bake a loaf of bread and fry chicken. I grow tomatoes in my yard and drive all the way to Kansas City to shop at Dean and Deluca for spices. Goofy? Sure, but why not have a little fun? Come to think of it....I feel like baking that dacquoise.......

All In The Family- The Restaurant Biz, Not the TV Show

The restaurant business is literally the lifeblood of our family. Not only does it keep a roof over my head, but also my daughter Laura, a restaurant manager, and her boyfriend Scott, an executive chef. It's business that can be challenging to work around- schedules often conflict with spouses and kids, holidays often mean the restaurant is still open, long hours, stressful shifts. It's not for the faint of heart. Working in the restaurant business requires a special sort of passion- for the food, for the customers and taking pride in what you do.

My daughter Laura got her foot in the door when she was still a college student. She wanted a part time job for extra money and applied for a job at Des Moines' popular Gateway Market. In this little upscale gourmet market she would set into motion a series of events that would bring her to where she is today- managing Malo, Des Moines' newest Latin restaurant. Always a hard worker she fit in with the staff and became a leader, catching the eye of the owner, George Formaro. George is a successful local restaurateur and James Beard nominee who, when opening up his hugely successful Zombie Burger + Drink Lab, took Laurie along with him to this new opportunity. She learned the ins and outs and eventually quit her full time corporate job to work at the restaurant full time. When George opened his latest restaurant, Malo, Laurie was offered a management position and the rest is history.

Laura, at the Roasting Cancer Chili Cookoff 2012

Get to know Laura-

1. What is one thing you really enjoy about restaurant management? I guess I really enjoy getting to meet new people on a day to day basis. I've done the whole corporate desk job, and warehouse job, and I am very outgoing- a social butterfly so being in the service industry is perfect for me. I constantly meet new people from all over and then I have my regular customers I see weekly, sometimes daily, and I get to know them on a personal level.

2. What is one thing you really dislike? What I really dislike are people who think they understand the restaurant business, not just customers but also employees. Some people think it's such an easy job and they could do it without question. Wrong! There is a lot that goes into every day and night.

3. At one time you had a dream of opening your own place- now that you have been behind the scenes, do you still think you would do it? Hmmmm, there was a point in my life where I wanted to own a salad bar/protein shop, I'm not sure if I'd still want to. At least not right now. I still have a lot to learn about what goes on behind the scenes of the restaurant business.

4. What is one recipe you really want to learn to make?  I don't really have on particular recipe I want to learn. I just like learning anything I can. I don't have much time to cook at home because of my work schedule, but I do watch and see many new dishes every week that wow me.

5. What is one thing you love to cook yourself, at home? Desserts! I loooooove my sweets and I love making and getting to eat them!

Laura takes after me- not only does she love cooking but she
appreciates quality cookware, like these LeCreuset bakers!

While working at Malo, Laurie met Scott Stroud, who was the executive chef working with George to develop the menu and get the restaurant opened and running. Scott has quite an impressive resume, starting when he was 14 years old and working at Sheffield's Deli. After graduating high school he worked at Chef's Table and Des Moines Golf and Country Club in addition to the deli. He is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Minneapolis and had his externship at the Grand Hotel du Val Andre in Van Andre Pleneuf, France. Returning to the U.S. he worked at Bouchard in Las Vegas, The Cafe in Ames, Iowa, a resort in Kenai, AK, Dos Rios in Des Moines, IA, Gigi and Big City Tavern in Boca Raton, FL, Willy's Cantina and Tavern in Townsville, Australia, and many others including the Jethro's family of restaurants in Des Moines, among others. His favorite restaurant to cook in is still The Cafe. 

Chef Scott Stroud

Get to know Scott-

1. At what age did you decide the culinary field where you wanted to be?  I was 14 and working at Sheffield's Deli. That simple act of completing a task from beginning to end (cooking) provides me with an instant gratification that has gone unparalleled. To get through the rush of a busy service and provide guests with a satisfactory experience where everything goes right- there is no better feeling. I started like most in this profession, doing dishes and prep and eventually working my way up to where I am today. I owe a lot of credit to Sheffield's. Yes, my mom cooked but we never really spent time in the kitchen. I eventually did collect her recipes and all our family recipes. I have been cooking for 16 years and I can't imagine doing anything else. It's all I've ever done and all I really know how to do.

2. What food trends do you think will be big in the coming year? A few things- food trucks, locally, with legislation in Iowa loosening, that was never an "if" but a "when." That will open the floodgates for everyone. You will see a mix of great food from people who can't afford a standing restaurant and want to make an honest living, and work their way up to the end goal of four walls. I'm also expecting some people to try and make a quick buck who will put out crappy overpriced food but Des Moines will not tolerate this, they will flash and sizzle in the pan one day and be gone the next. 

When I visit other cities I see a lot more snack type restaurants, where you can spend hours eating smaller plates and drinking wine. I would compare this idea to one of my favorites, The Cheese Shop, but with even more seats and a broader menu.

Food and restaurants will always be here but I believe society as a whole is embracing the culinary scene more than ever. We love celebrity chefs and The Food Network. With that, we have cookbooks coming out of every kitchen in the world. I think we will continue to see more cookbooks coming out of restaurants and from chefs like we have never seen before.

Microbreweries- we have more Iowa beers available than ever before. I see this trend continuing to grow and with restaurants all over the state supporting these local quality products, I wouldn't limit it to beer even. I would expect to see more in the distilled spirits department continue to grow in our own backyard.

3. Something you HATE to cook?  I think a lot of chefs hate making dessert and pastries. It takes a certain kind of person with patience and understanding, two traits most kitchen managers don't have. I can only speak for myself but in school we briefly covered the topic- only 8 weeks, compared to a 1-2 year program focused solely on sweets. I've made some of the most basic desserts, such as creme brulee, chocolate lava cakes, and ice cream. I wish I had spent more time or had better training in desserts because the possibilities are endless and everyone loves dessert!

4. Goals- do you see yourself owning your own restaurant one day? I used to dream about owning my own place, but then you hear that nine out of ten fail in the first year, you think twice. I've worked for ma and pa restaurants and I've worked for large corporate hotels as well, and I like where I'm currently at. Jethros/Splash it's not so corporate that it has no soul, but at the same time it's not small that I worry about not getting a check, or something goes wrong. The company takes great care of us and I'm really happy in my current position so it's hard to say if I would ever want my own place. I have no immediate plans to do so.

Scott cooks at home- roast chicken, French corn sauce

5. Who would you say is your culinary icon(s)? Anthony Bourdain- a teacher I had in high school knew I worked in restaurants and gave me "Kitchen Confidential." I was hooked, I wanted to go to the places he had and do the things he had in his book.

Thomas Keller- I graduated high school a semester early and was working at three restaurant jobs before culinary school and getting burned out. My dad got me a copy of "The French Laundry Cookbook" out of nowhere and I was never so inspired by a chef. So unrealistic and over the top, it's really a coffee table cookbook because no average home could afford let alone reproduce most recipes. Years later I staged for Chef Keller in Las Vegas at Bouchon and that is a whole story for another time. Everything his kitchens produce is as close to perfect as possible. A couple years ago I was able to get a reservation at The French Laundry and it was hands down the best meal of my life.

Locally I have been inspired by working for Jason Simon at Alba, George Formaro with Orchestrate, and Dom Iannarelli at Splash/Jethros. They gave so much to their businesses and worked their tails off to get where they are today. I'm very proud to have worked and learned under these three culinary leaders in our community. Everything from scratch, lots of hours, but priceless experiences in those kitchens.

Last, and in no way least, is my chef, Joe. Unlike many of his peers, Joe did not attend culinary school. He began working in restaurants as a teen and worked his way up through the kitchen, serving in several positions along the way. He got his start in a Greek restaurant and has worked in several Italian restaurants over the years as well as American, Mexican and barbeque restaurants. He has worked in catering, also at Des Moines Golf and Country Club, a dinner theater, a mobile food cart, and a lake resort, The Port on Lake Panorama, as well. One highlight of his career was the menu design and pairing of food and craft beers at an event hosted by Olde Main Brewery, designing dishes from appetizers to dessert that complimented their different beers.

Chef Joe Riccio

Get to know Joe-

1. Culinary school regrets? If I could go back and go to culinary school, one skill I really would want to master would be ice carving. With a lot of catering experience in the past, ice carving definitely would have been an asset.

2. Favorite piece of kitchen equipment? My favorite pieces of kitchen equipment are my knives. A good knife sharpener is also very important. You don't get far with dull knives. At home I really love using a Kitchenaid stand mixer for making fresh pizza dough.

3. Name a food you hate to work with. Not a fan of beets- not to eat and definitely not to work with. Messy and not a vegetable I like at all. Not into liver either- it smells terrible and the texture is awful.

4. What kind of cooking competition do you think you could kick some serious butt in? If I ever entered a culinary competition that I felt I could dominate, it would be Italian cooking. I have a lengthy history of Italian cooking and love playing with pizza recipes. I would definitely give someone a good run for the money in a burger cook off or chili cook off too.

5. Who is your culinary icon? Mario Batali. Watching old reruns of Molto Mario is a favorite pastime of mine and I'm amazed at Mario's extensive knowledge of Italy and food.  
  

Joe's Homemade Stuffed Peppers, a customer favorite
at The Port on Lake Panorama

Besides those family members that work in restaurants, the rest of us love eating out and checking out new places. We are all great cooks. It gives me something interesting to write about and I get an inside look at coming food trends and local restaurant news. My daughter, son in law and grandson recently treated me to dinner at Americana, a newer restaurant in downtown Des Moines. It's on my list of must-try Des Moines restaurants so I was super excited to go. The restaurant itself is an interesting mix of arty, contemporary and industrial decor and the menu is a mix of tapas style dishes and upscale American classics, such as Truffled Mac and Cheese, Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf, Shrimp and Grits and so much more. It was a great Sunday night meal and I'll definitely be back.

Culinary Homeschooling- Part Two

I thought this was going to be just oh so fun. Things took a dramatic turn for the worse today, as I began reading a most horrific set of chapters. Math. Restaurant math. Food costing. Breaking recipes and ingredients down into servings and cost-per-serving. Establishing menu prices based on math formulas taking into consideration cost per unit and servings per quantity. Now I need a drink!

Thankfully this is just for fun, and I won't be tested on any of these things. I'll be honest, math is NOT my friend. Three pages into how to calculate these things and I was really in over my head. If the raw food cost for one sandwich is $1.70 and the desired food cost percentage is 23%, the selling price must be at least $7.39. Huh?

          1.70 divided by .23 = 7.391

Ok, sure. Whatever you say (insert confused face). On to things that are much more entertaining. Like mise en place. Now I knew what that meant years before ever getting this book. Everything in it's place. In other words, get all your ingredients out, measured, and ready to use so once you start a recipe you don't have to stop and dig through the pantry for ingredients. No brainer, right? 

I read the chapter on knife skills. I love knives. Really. Kitchen knives are my obsession. The book set out the parts of a knife (I knew this), talked about different metals and why some are better than others (I knew this), why a full tang is better (I knew this) and broke down the differences in knife sharpeners and why people choose the different kinds for different uses. I now need to obtain a whetstone sharpener. And more knives.

The knife chapter also included a primer of knife skills and cuts. Rondelles. Chiffonade. Julienne, Batonnet. Brunoise. Dice. Paysanne. Tourner. I am going to get a couple carrots, some basil or small leafy green and a couple potatoes and spend a hour or two brushing up on my cuts and techniques.

I learned about calibrating a thermometer. Never thought I needed to do that, but I now have a new skill filed away in the brain for future reference. Oh coffee- an entire chapter devoted to coffee, all the different roasts, types of grinds, the how and whys. I never knew these things, so I did gain lots of new knowledge from this chapter especially. Did you know that in other countries American Roast is known as City Roast? Neither did I! 

I often play with French recipes and many times they call for creme fraiche. Living in a rural area means I often cannot find ingredients like this. Lo and behold....... this textbook reveals how to make it myself. This changes everything. I'll be a creme fraiche-making fool!

One notable section of the book covered butter and margarine. Everyone who knows me knows my utter disdain for margarine. I am not alone. This point is driven home in great detail in culinary school, and this textbook details the chemical composition of margarine, the history, the nasty stuff, the gross stuff, the hydrogenation process...... things that make the case for Just Say No To Margarine. I feel validated.

I am approaching the food chapters, so I hope you will continue to follow along. Now that I'm getting into the real food nitty gritty I can have some fun with demonstration and really testing my skills.

Culinary Homeschooling, Part One

Ok, I am just being silly here. Thanks to the wonderland known as Ebay I have in my possession my first culinary school textbook. Yep, and it is nothing like I expected. I imagined recipes for amazingly difficult foods and detailed instructions on super fancy plating techniques. Nope. Nothing like that.

 

This book is the real deal. Food history. Sanitation and food safety. Culinary mathematics (yuck). Food costs. Nutrition. Menu planning. Many many chapters on the different categories of food. 1080 pages of....... textbook. What have I done? In all seriousness, my plan is to read this book, cover to cover, and see what I missed out on never having gone to culinary school. 

Obviously, my Culinary Homeschool experience is going to start with Chapter 1- Professionalism. In other words, the history, tradition and expectations of culinary professionals. What did I learn so far?

• The brigade- a system of staffing a kitchen so that each worker is assigned a set of specific tasks; often related by cooking method, equipment, or the type of food being prepared.
• The difference between a gourmet and a gourmand.
• The three compartment sink.
• All about macronutrients and micronutrients.
• The differences between a static menu, a cycle menu, a market menu and a hybrid menu.

Just a couple chapters in I am actually a little bit intimidated by this immense book. Thirty five chapters cover every culinary subject imaginable to me. I have no plans to pursue a professional cooking career but I figure it can't hurt to spend some quality time with this book and I know I will learn a lot. At least I know there won't be any TESTS!

Oh, and before I forget- I titled this "Part One" in the hopes that you will continue to follow me on my Culinary Homeschool Project. What do you think I will discover in Part Two?

The Michelin Star

The Michelin star. Is it an historical relic or still relevant? 

Travelers since 1900 (yes, THAT long ago) have relied on The Michelin Guides for help in planning travels to cities and countries. That first Michelin Guide was published in France by Andre and Edouard Michelin, the tire manufacturers, as a hopeful way to drive up tourism, the need for more cars and, ultimately, more tires. They printed 35,000 copies and gave it away for free, hoping the information about hotels, gas stations, hints on tire repairs, car maintenance, and maps would get people on the road. Perhaps they were on to something? The Michelin brothers eventually added other European countries and publication was stopped only during World War I. It has been a travel standard over many decades.

The Company's website says that the guides were given away free until Andre noticed that the guys in a tire shop had used one to prop up a piece of equipment. The brothers adopted the adage "a man only respects what he pays for" policy and began charging for the guides. It was around this time that they also started to include and review restaurants. The brothers hired a group of reviewers whose job was to travel the country (at this time it was only in France) and secretly review restaurants.

Crispy Duck and Waffles from Momofoko in NYC, a
two Michelin Star restaurant

1926 was the inaugural year for the Michelin Star. Back in those days, you either had a star or you didn't. You had a 50/50 chance to make it in the Guide and enjoy the boost in business. Five years later they introduced the three-star review system and five years later revealed to the world the meaning of those coveted stars:

• *      "A very good restaurant in its category" 
• **    "Excellent cooking, worth a detour" 
• ***  "Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey" 

It wasn't until 2005 that Michelin published its first guide in the United States. That guide contained reviews for 500 New York restaurants.

So.......I'd like to know HOW one scores a gig like becoming a Michelin reviewer? They must remain completely anonymous as they travel about. Sounds like a great job for me-I'm a blend-in-the-woodwork kind of girl, quiet and unassuming. No one would ever guess if I were a Michelin inspector!!

I could travel around and eat fabulous things like
this gorgeous dessert. Picture from Sarah Gomez.

What do American chefs have to say about the Michelin rating? Some have never heard of it, others think it's archaic and in the Internet age, irrelevant. I talked to chefs who feel that in the U.S. a James Beard nomination or award is more important in this modern day and others who would be extremely humbled just to be considered for either. Overall, the chefs that I talked to said they think that the James Beard nomination/award is more important in the U.S. and they don't really give much thought to Michelin. They are just happy to be doing what they love and having people enjoy what they create. 

Dessert from Le Bernardin in NYC,
a three Michelin Star restaurant.

The Michelin Guide has not been without some bumps in the road. Once called "the only guide that matters" it has been accused of showing preference to certain chefs, and being harsher on restaurants that differ from classic French cooking. Michelin claims to review a restaurant every 18 months but at least one former inspector claims it was typically twice that long between visits due to the reduced amount of inspectors on staff. 

Do we still value these old ranking systems or have we let technology and the Internet help us form opinions and make plans when traveling or eating out? Have you ever visited a Michelin Star restaurant, or even know or care? I know I would LOVE to be able to visit as many as I can. Michelin now has guides for all over the U.S. and Chicago is not too far away....... maybe it's not such an impossible dream after all!

Foodie Field Trip- Culinary Fight Night

It's all about who you know!! Seriously! I thought this year I would have to scale back on my Foodie Field Trips and spend more time poring over the cookbook stash and cooking at home for entertainment, but when you have a child in the culinary industry you sometimes have a bit of an edge! My lovely daughter Laura graciously invited me to go with her to the 2015 Culinary Fight Night in Des Moines and of course, I said yes!

I'd heard about this event a while back and really wished I could go. As a charity event, the chefs will be raising money to help support the Central Iowa Shelter Services as well as winning some cash for themselves and a black boxing glove as the trophy. As a food event, there will be some amazing dishes to experience. 

Along the line of a Chopped meets Iron Chef type competition, the chefs battle face to face in a Vegas-style boxing ring and each of the chefs will create an appetizer, entree and dessert, and guests vote for their favorite. Besides the exciting menu, guests get to meet and greet with the judges, chefs and other guests, enjoy appetizers and cocktails before the event and take home some swag as well.

The swag was not your typical bag of goodies. Intended to bring home the importance of helping people in need, it was a stark contrast to the typical "goodie bag" at events. While we were dining on filet mignon, lobster, uni, truffles, and enjoying cocktails in a beautiful ballroom, there are people living in shelters, in cars, without even the basic needs. 

Who are the chefs?

Chef Dominic Iannarelli is a graduate of Iowa State University in Ames, Iowa, with a degree in hotel restaurant management. After cooking around Ames and Des Moines for a while, he became the Executive Chef at Splash Seafood. Working with Bruce Gerleman, Chef Iannarelli opened Jethro's BBQ, and we all know how successful Jethro's has been! Besides having numerous locations around the Des Moines area, they have been featured on many television shows including Man vs. Food on The Travel Channel.

Chef Mike Holman is one BUSY guy! He is the Executive Chef for Dos Rios, Big City Burgers & Greens and Catering DSM. Also a former Ames resident he began his cooking career at the Iowa Culinary Institute and after, headed to France where he practiced in the St. Etienne region. A passionate advocate of local sources and products, and a supporter of various charities in the area, Mike sounds like a fierce competitor and a peek at the menu he has created for this event demonstrates his skill and vision.

Students from the Iowa Culinary Institute assist the chefs

The scene. The Iowa Ballroom at the Des Moines Marriott was transformed into a boxing arena, surrounded by tables for the guests to watch the action. The pre-fight Meet and Greet gave everyone a chance to visit with the judges, chefs and other locals, and enjoy a cocktail or two and appetizers.

The secret ingredients. All the guests were able to vote ahead of time for a secret ingredient they would like to see the chefs use, and the top three voted were jelly beans, marshmallows and root beer. The chefs could use one ingredient per course OR all three in one course.

The menu. Can I just say WOW? Two appetizers, two entrees and two desserts, and are they are exciting. Chef I used jelly beans to create a gastrique for his shrimp appetizer and Chef H used marshmallows in his white chocolate sauce. The food fight starts with-

Crispy sugar cane shrimp, raspberries, rocket salad and Manchego dressing (Chef I) AND 

Tabasco-seared scallop, gingered sweet potato puree, warm white chocolate sauce and crispy bacon (Chef H). I am dying and headed to the Pearly Swinging Kitchen Doors! So much delicious and we have barely started. The shrimp was speared on a sugar cane stick and placed atop a fresh and crispy salad, with this amazing and light dressing. The scallop was delicious, tender and perfectly cooked, nestled onto a bed of the most delicious sweet potato puree I have ever tasted. Little bits of ginger lingered in the puree. The scallop was my favorite appetizer.

Then we move on to entrees. The entrees had to use the secret ingredient of root beer. Both chefs incorporated it into a sauce-

Honey glazed BBQ duck, sesame seared baby bok choy, garlic and leek fried rice (Chef H) AND 

Szechuan peppercorn crusted filet medallions, lobster XO sauce, uni risotto (Chef I). I am officially in culinary heaven. I have never had uni before so this is an amazing and rare treat for me. Duck......one of my lifetime favorites. I wish I could describe the duck- it was perfectly cooked, rare, juicy with perfectly cooked skin, nestled onto an Asian-inspired fried rice. Lobster and  filet are always perfect, but paired with a lovely risotto and topped with a shaving of black truffle, it was truly elevated. 

No room for dessert? Well here are two anyway. Chef I used his last secret ingredient, marshmallow, in the tiramisu, and Chef H created a jelly bean sauce to top his ice cream dish-

Hot Chocolate Tiramisu with peppermint Schnapps (Chef I) AND 

Brown sugar glazed bananas, Orange coconut cardamom ice cream, toasted walnuts and salted caramel whipped cream (Chef H). There just are no words. The ice cream was very light, the banana was caramelized beautifully and not too sweet, and the drizzle of jelly bean sauce brought that touch of sweet. The tiramisu brought the sweet in a big way. Soft ladyfingers, creamy mascarpone, drizzled with the hot chocolate sauce, it reminded me of cannoli.

The judges. Five dignitaries/personalities were on hand for the official judging, and they were KCCI Reporter Emmy Victor; Des Moines Mayor Frank Cownie; Miss Iowa 2014 Aly Olson; cookbook author, writer and TV Host Wini Moranville and Juice Magazine's Rebecca Sidles. As guests we also had a say in the competition after trying all the courses by casting our vote for the best chef.

The competition was incredibly close. By a score of 379 to 377.......the winner of the 2015 Culinary Fight Night Des Moines is...........Chef Mike Holman of Dos Rios! This event was so much fun, I want to visit some other cities and experience what their chefs bring to the ring!

Disclosure of Material Connection: I have not received any compensation for writing this post. I have no material connection to the brands, products, or services that I mentioned. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 55: "Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising."

http://www.culinaryfightnight.com/des-moines/

Cooking with friends- Feiny's Rubs

Along my blogging journey I have become friends with all kinds of interesting people. Home cooks, cookbook authors, master food preservers, cooks and chefs and barbeque pitmasters. Every day I am learning something new, or hearing about new recipes and restaurants. I'm totally in my element surrounded by all these interesting folks. I love everything food- from growing to cooking to preservation. I love talking about growing vegetables, and the best knives for chopping, the best cut of beef and which brand of almond milk tastes best. It's a never ending cycle of learning and exploring.

Just about three years ago I met and became friends with an up and coming young chef in Denver. Adam Feinberg has an infectious enthusiasm and such a passion for cooking, you can't help but want to get to know him. We have great conversations- everything from craft brews to chefs' knives to what's trending in the restaurant business. What I found so unique about getting to know Adam was not just the fact that he is a chef, but he also was throwing 100% into launching his own personal line of seasoning rubs. Ambition tells me a lot about a person and Adam certainly has no shortage of ambition. 

An experienced cook myself, I had come up with my own personal meat rub that everyone raved over, so I was a little hesitant to try something I didn't think I'd use that often, but I felt like I should give my friend's new product a try. I was immensely impressed. Creative and unique combinations of flavors, everything natural with no MSG or preservatives, and gluten-free for those who need to avoid gluten, are inspiring and well crafted. I have tried four of Adam's line of rubs and am anxiously awaiting some of the future rubs, such as an Asian-inspired rub. 

Adam's crab cakes are legendary

When Adam isn't crafting his rubs or cooking at the restaurant, he travels to Las Vegas every year to attend the World Food Championships, where he cooks up a storm on the Vegas Strip with lots of incredible home cooks, pit masters and chefs. He has also participated in competition barbeque and would like to talk with other competition teams and chefs about future collaboration. You can bet that everywhere Adam is, he is sharing Feiny's Rubs with people.

Let's talk about the rubs for a few minutes. Adam currently offers five different handcrafted rubs: Veggie Rub, Everything Rub, Citrus BBQ Rub, Chesapeake Bay Rub, and Original BBQ Rub. Amazingly, I have yet to try the Original BBQ- I always forget that one! Could be because the Citrus BBQ is just that good.........

Seriously though, let's go through my four favorites and talk about them.

Veggie Rub- If you're like me, you love your veggies. Roasted, grilled, steamed, stir fried- you name it, if it grew on a plant I love it. When I was growing up my mother's idea of seasoning a vegetable was plopping in a pat of butter in a can of something she got at the store. Oh how times have changed. For one thing, there is a better than average chance that I grew this vegetable myself, and if not, if came from a farm or farmers market. I want to highlight the natural flavor and freshness of my veggies. Feiny's Veggie Rub is exactly what I am looking for. Herbs, spices, citrus and honey make up this all-natural preservative free rub. Sprinkle it on fresh asparagus and grill it. Toss potatoes or cut up root veggies like carrots and beets with a little Veggie Rub and roast them. Add to salad dressings and sliced fresh tomatoes and cucumbers. You can even use it to boost the flavor of tuna and chicken salads! It's fantastic and really brings the flavors out in your fresh veggies. My favorite ways to use it? Tossed with chunks of root veggies and Brussels sprouts and roasted and blended into softened butter to make a delicious compound butter for sweet corn. 

Everything Rub- Everything. Literally, everything. You wouldn't believe what's in this playful rub- herbs such as parsley and thyme, tomato powder (you don't see that very often!), cinnamon and citrus. I personally find chicken to be a bit bland at times. Not with Feiny's Everything Rub. Rub some liberally over your chicken or pork- everything from whole chickens to boneless, skinless tenders to pork chops and roasts as a dry rub. Mix with olive oil and wine for a wet marinade. Everything Rub makes your hand-pattied burger jump out of the bun with flavor. Mix a tablespoon of Rub into mayo for a killer sandwich spread or fry sauce. Throwing some steaks on the grill? Don't even think about not rubbing those babies down with Everything Rub. Just don't. Sprinkle some on your baked potato too.

Citrus BBQ Rub- Make your seafood come alive! Mango, orange, lemon and lime highlight Citrus BBQ Rub, along with a hint of heat from chili, garlic and cumin, with some other all-natural herbs and spices. Use this liberally in marinades for fish, shrimp, scallops and more. Mix into clarified butter for dipping. Create a modern version of the Nawlins' Style BBQ Shrimp with this flavorful rub. It's not just for seafood though- chicken and pork come alive with the fruity flavors. Sprinkle into Asian stir fries or rice, and don't forget this tasty blend when cooking veggies. Grilled baby bok choy, for example, is the perfect fresh veggie for this sweet savory mix.

Chesapeake Bay Rub- It should be a law- never make a crab cake without Chesapeake Bay Rub. Really, just don't. This blend of herbs and spices is complex. Lots of flavors I never imagined would go together. Spices like mace, which to me translate to baking, and green herbs like thyme, basil and more- just phenomenal together. Poaching seafood? Don't forget the rub. Seriously, no fish or seafood should leave your kitchen without Chesapeake Bay Rub. Add it to Pinot Grigio before steaming mussels. Prepare your lobster roll- cook that tail with Feiny's and add it to the dressing. Tuna salad reaches a new dimension if you add Chesapeake Bay. My family loves pasta salad with baby shrimp- I'll never make it without Chesapeake Bay ever again! Besides all these seafood and fish dishes, I gotta tell you- I LOVE tossing wedges of potato in a little olive oil and Chesapeake Bay Rub and roasting until browned and crispy- mix up some sour cream with more Chesapeake Bay for dipping! Delicious!

You can't get Feiny's in stores yet, but you CAN order them online at www.feintastingfoods.com. Quick delivery gets your rubs to you so fast you'll be cooking up a storm before you know it. Adam offers two sizes and great sales and special offers, and has several fantastic new rubs in the works. I can't wait to check them out!

Now let's cook something using some Feinys. I just so happen to have a nice pork loin roast so I cut off four nice chops, rubbed them liberally with Feiny's Everything Rub and popped them in a hot skillet with 2 tablespoons each butter and olive oil.

Give each side 4 or 5 minutes to get a good sear and golden brown caramelized crust and flip only once. Cook to an internal temp of 145 degrees for perfect juicy pork. Delicious! The Everything Rub has so many flavors going on, savory, sweet, herbs- the best pork chops you will ever have. Trust me, you need this rub in your kitchen.

photo by Studio Feldman

Disclosure of Material Connection: I have not received any compensation for writing this post. I have no material connection to the brands, products, or services that I mentioned. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's 16 CFR, Part 55: "Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising."